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Old 03-21-2011, 03:37 PM   #1
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Astro Van or S-10 Power Steering Install

I just finished installing power steering on my Samurai and this is my attempt at posting a write-up to help other contemplating the same. I’m running YJ’s SPOA with 33’s, Spool rear and Locker in front. I was going to go with Astro Van Box for strength and availability but ended up going with an S-10 box. It’s the same box but has a rear pointing pitman arm that is dropped and has the correct taper for the Samurai ball joint. I think the Astro would work on a buggy or extended chassis but my draglink would have been at about a 45 degree angle to the tie rod.
I already had a double row V belt crank pulley from having A/C.

Total cost was about $175.00. Here’s the break down.
1996 S-10 Steering Box, & Astro Van Steering shaft $40.00
Astro Van Steering Pump $30.00
V belt Pump Pulley off some Chevy truck $7.00
Astro Van Remote Reservoir . $5.00
Ford Explorer Cooler $13.00
” x 6” x 8” steel plate $12.00
7/16” – 14 x 2” Flat head allen bolts from McMaster Carr about $7.00 for box of 10 (only need 2)
82 degree countersink from McMaster Carr $32.00
Pitman arm puller from Auto Zone $14.00
Hose for Cooler from Auto Zone $12.00

Steps:
Remove Grill, Radiator, Fan Shroud, Overflow Bottle, Steering shaft, Steering Box, Stock Jack.
Cut Radiator support brackets off frame on both sides.
Clamp Steel Adapter plate to frame as high as possible and as far forward as possible. Using 7/16” drill to spot or mark the plate by drilling through the 3 factory steering box mount, bolt holes. Remove plate and drill through plate. I used a .422 dia. Bit (27/64”) and tapped the holes with a 12mm x 1.25 tap, so I could use the stock steering box bolts. These holes don’t have to be tapped. They could be drilled straight thru. Mount plate in a bench vice. Drill a 7/16” hole at the top of the plate down ” from the top edge and ” from the front edge. This will be the top hole for the steering box. Bolt the plate to the chassis, mount the box to the top bolt using about 5/8” spacer. Now it’s time to assemble the steering shaft. Using the stock Samurai shaft. You need to drill thru the plastic pins to get the shaft to come apart. Cut the tabs off the stock shaft where the rag joint bolts to the shaft. Cut 1 ” off the lower shaft flattened end. (this helps keep the shaft from hitting the exhaust manifold.) Cut the Astro Steering joint and weld the Astro joint to the Samurai lower shaft. You should now have a shaft that will bolt to the steering box and the Samurai column. Attach the shaft and adjust the steering box so the shaft doesn’t hit the exhaust manifold and is high enough to get the oil filter on and off. Mark the lower steering box mounting holes on the adapter plate. Remove steering shaft, box and adapter plate. Remove pitman arm. Using a torch, bend pitman arm as shown in photo. Quench pitman arm in water to cool and maintain hardness. This fixes ball joint angle and gives extra clearance between drag link and oil pan. Remount pitman arm. Drill adapter plate for 2 lower holes. Countersink 2 lower holes because the bolts will get sandwiched between the plate and the frame. Using flat head allen bolts, a couple of spacers or washers and locktite, mount the box to the adapter plate. Mount box and plate to the frame. Install steering shaft.
Make Brackets to hold your Pump. I changed the pulley to a V Belt pulley that I pulled from a chevy truck. It was almost flat so my pump wouldn’t sit too far back. (pulley puller available on loan from Auto Zone). I used the High Pressure hose off the S-10 pickup, just had to bend the metal tube to use it.
I made 2 new brackets for the right side of the radiator. I used the right side radiator support on the left side of the radiator, so it would point forward and I used the radiator bracket I cut off the frame and welded it to the round tube for my driver’s side radiator support. This moved the radiator a couple of inches to the right giving room for the steering box. I mounted the fan shroud upside down after cutting a notch in it to clear the top radiator hose. I mounted a Ford Explorer power steering cooler above the steering box and in front of the radiator. The Astro Van remote reservoir had a bracket that protruded above the top. I cut it off and rewelded it so it protruded down from the bottom. I mounted the reservoir to the stock jack bracket. I think that’s about it. Check out the photos: http://s17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...er%20Steering/
















Last edited by Tom Slick; 03-21-2011 at 03:48 PM.
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Old 03-21-2011, 03:54 PM   #2
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Top Radiator bracket

Drivers side radiator bracket

Box with bent pitman arm

Pump brackets


Shaft welded

Shaft cut
[IMG]http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b81/tbush/Misc/Power%20Steering/IMG_0098.jpg[/IMG
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Old 03-21-2011, 07:02 PM   #3
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nice writeup...excellent crafting.
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Old 03-22-2011, 09:13 AM   #4
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very nice!
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Old 03-22-2011, 01:42 PM   #5
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Very nice and thank you for taking time to take pics and post them!!!
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Old 03-24-2011, 12:49 PM   #6
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Nice write up, thanks for taking all the time to document the install.

It looks like the astro box could be used, if a guy wanted to move the axle forward , and still keep the box in the same position. That would be nice for springs with a forward offset pin. Using the astro box the steering could b inside the frame rails, and the engine bay, unlike a lot of install where the box is moved way forward and on the outside.
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Old 04-18-2011, 10:30 AM   #7
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Would it be possible to just pull the whole power steering system off an s-10? Would the pump and other parts line up?
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Old 04-19-2011, 06:59 PM   #8
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You could use everything off the S-10. Not sure what you mean about the pump lining up. I pulled a v-belt pulley off an older Chevy truck and installed it on the Astro Van pump I had. 2 reasons, the pump had a rib belt pulley on it and the pulley also had a deep dish to it which meant I'd have to mount the pump further back or closer to the firewall. Auto Zone loans out the puller needed for free. Just take it with you to the Pick-A-Part and pull a fairly flat pulley off any Chevy P/S pump and then install it on the pump. Then you can make brackets out of angle iron to mount the pump to the engine.
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Old 04-20-2011, 10:20 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spookyseven View Post
Would it be possible to just pull the whole power steering system off an s-10? Would the pump and other parts line up?
s10 has a rear facing pitman arm, Astro has a front facing arm
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Old 11-29-2012, 05:14 PM   #10
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Just ran across this...

And, now that I've looked at my own Samurai (with track/kick power steering), I too would need the S-10 box (with rearward facing pit man arm).

I'm looking now, as I found an Astro Van with all I needed. But, now that the box needs to be S10... I'm stuck again.

Thanks for posting your write up!!!
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Old 11-29-2012, 05:29 PM   #11
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Nicely done...
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Old 11-29-2012, 07:47 PM   #12
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Gonna subscribe to this. We've got a couple S-10's junked. Does the earlier gen S-10's have the same Pitman arm that fits the samurai drag link?
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Old 11-29-2012, 10:00 PM   #13
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EDIT (again):

Quote:
I've got the lineup on the pump...
From an Astro, and it's the saginaw P pump (most wanted for p/s).
I pulled a steering box from a '74 Oldsmobile 98 today... $55.00
It's just what I needed, a 27-2659 steering gear that works with a rear facing pitman arm (even though on the 98, it's forward.. and uses idler arms). I went in looking for a '73 Olds 88 Royale... and ran up on this car instead. Took me all of 30min to pull, mostly because I forgot my hammer to free up the tie rod end off the pitman. But got'er done with a large crescent. This thing is huge (has the larger inner piston), and is a 4 bolt mount. Yet, on the 98... only used 3 bolts to hold it in.

Quote:
Once I go back (forgot a pulley puller) and pull the Astro pump, I'll be on my way to ONE FINGER steering.
(and, I'll have my complete track/kick power steering for sale)
EDIT: I went back, with puller... and pulled a p/s pump from an Astro, and one from a Suburban. Both P pumps... but, the Burb had a reservoir (on the pump). I grabbed a remote reservoir the day prior... but, thought long and hard if I truly need remote. And, well... my current track/kick p/s setup has a reservoir... and no cooler. The idea of a remote reservoir was to make it easier to use with an oil cooler. I nix'd the idea. Using the larger box and pump (it won't work as hard as my smaller p/s setup I have now), I won't need a cooler if I don't have one already... so, I went with the p/s pump w/reservoir attached. Also, this keeps less oil lines running around in the tiny engine bay.

I also grabbed a mid-shaft from a Cadillac (also running the large steering box with 13/16-36 input shaft) as one side had a rag link and the other a u-joint. And when I was passing an old Ford van... I also saw a steering coupler rag link that looked larger then the cadillacs... so I grabbed it too. It just didn't have the steering shaft. It's definitely a beefier rag link and it too is a 13/16-36 spline.

I also was trying to grab a p/s pump mount from any vehicle with the proper p pump. However, most all of them were cast... all but one, on a chevy pickup. Problem was it was part of the entire from pulley mounting system... and I didn't have a saw on hand to cut it up. Otherwise, it would have taken me another hour to remove. I was over being at the junk yard, and so was my wife! I'll just make my own mounts... and will post up install pictures soon.

I'm on my way to my one-finger power steering.
... I thought I'd edit and add my latest findings for those already ready this thread. Hopefully it'll help all you too.

HUGE Thanks goes out to Scott at Urban Rock Crawler.
Without him... I'd just be another reader who thinks he's smart.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyAirtime View Post
Just ran across this...

And, now that I've looked at my own Samurai (with track/kick power steering), I too would need the S-10 box (with rearward facing pit man arm).

I'm looking now, as I found an Astro Van with all I needed. But, now that the box needs to be S10... I'm stuck again.

Thanks for posting your write up!!!
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Last edited by JohnnyAirtime; 12-02-2012 at 05:51 PM.
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:25 AM   #14
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My upgraded power steering is done (PART 1);

I ended up finding a Urban Rock Crawler brand power steering P-pump bracket off of Craigs List. It came with a pump, pulley and complete bracket. SCORE!! What luck, as I was going to make the bracket myself and now, don't have to... OR, so I thought.

Once the mailman came and delivered my box... I matched up the bracket, and noticed it would be too low for my steering box. It'd hit the top of the steering box near the input shaft. So, I would have to move it up a hole or two on the engine block. This is where I should have stepped back, and realized remaking this part of the 2part mount... would have looked nicer when complete. BUT, it's in the engine compartment... so, as long as it holds... we're good!

Here's the remade bracket;

I had to re-drill a new lower hole, and space it out 2 washers thick. I also made a 3/8" plate to pick up two more mounting holes (for better support), and spaced the top hole with a 3/8 spacer. Pretty simple once done, and strong as an Ox... but, to my taste it's ugly.

I used my existing 'rag joint eliminator' (u-joint) on the steering shaft and welded it to the cut down rag joint from the donor p/s box. I had all kinds of other ideas and didn't want to sacrifice my steering shaft parts as I was going to sell the old p/s setup as a "kit". The cost of a new shaft and u-joint helped me utilize what I had on hand. Here's the new coupler ready to be welded, and ready for install;


I had already figured out where the steering box would mount, and had made the inner steel plate to hold it in place. But I had yet to cut the outer 1/4" plate. I still had to cut the stock hole frame sleeves and grind them smooth, as well I wanted to weld up any holes in the frame and grind them smooth too. I also cut a small portion of the wheel well out to accomodate welding the top of the outer bracket, and to tie the two brackets together with a sleeve and through bolt. Lots of work, fitting things... putting them together, taking them apart... many times! Here's what the frame looked like in the wheel well after I removed the track/kick steering box, and after I welded in the outer frame support;

As you can see... by the outer plate, I won't have any "support" issues for this steering box.

Now... onto the inner 3/8 plate.
I see a lot of p/s boxes mounted low and both inside and outside the frame rails. Of coarse, this one is going inside... but, I had to move it ABOVE the front round cross brace tube. It was just too big to go below it, and I still had just enough clearance for full swing of the pitman arm if mounted above. Just barely will it all fit, as long as the bracket is in the sweet spot. Sadly, I'll have to remake my radiator brackets and flip the shroud over... being, it'll be all the way over to the passenger wheel well (off-center). This steering box is huge...!

Here's the steering box mount;


And the steering box and mount, mounted up to the frame for "fitting" purposes;


And, the mounts all tied in together. Where the top back bolt will get braced with the outer support, and the top front bolt will solely use the inner bracket. I didn't think it necessary to cut the body mount up... for one bolt, when this bracket system will be more then enough. Here it is before final welding and paint;
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:26 AM   #15
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It's officially done and installed (PART 2)
.... I only have yet to cut the center link, and weld in the new tie-rod end (which ties center link to pitman)

I had emailed Scott at Urban Rock Crawler, he informed me my pump mount was to be used with the VERY bottom hole on my engine block. I re-worked it to move up to the next hole(s) and to make sure it cleared my steering box and steering shaft u-joint. So, here it is... waiting for the pump and pump mount;


The steering box mount, painted and then rattle can undercoated;


The outer steering box mount, in the fender well... rattle can undercoated;


The p/s pump and Urban Rock Crawler P-Pump mount... mounted up with new 40" belt;


Here's the pictures of the completed new power steering;


Fluid added... and primed, now I'm waiting for a running motor.
Monday will bring me to make new radiator mounts and get it all "dialed in". I should be able to pull it out of the garage on Tuesday afternoon (bar no interruptions).
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Old 12-27-2012, 03:31 AM   #16
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This is a lot to ingest. Subscribed. Good info
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