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Old 01-15-2006, 01:02 AM   #1
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Basic spring over lift

I know this will be very basic for most everybody out ther, but thought it might help someone, and theres not much in the build up thread right now.

Heres the sammy in stock form. Guy that ownes it just picked it up for $800. Its really clean. In this part of the world 800 is a good buy.



Got the front axle out from under the rig.



I preasure washed the axle before any work was done. Believe me it was not this clean before.
I build the spring over pads out of 2''x4''x3/16'' tubing. Cut tube to 5'' long. Used 2 1/2'' hole saw and drilled through center, then cut with grinder right down the middle, and now I had two spring over pads.



Her you can see the soa pad a little better.

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Old 01-15-2006, 01:10 AM   #2
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Got the front pads all welded on and axle painted.



Here you can see I did box in the ends of the spring pads. Also I cut off the stock sua pads. I think it looks alot cleaner, without the pads under the axle.




I will be reinstalling front axle tomorrow. Will have more pictures after that.
I know this is basic stuff, but if theres anything someone wants to see in addtion to the basics let me know I'll get pictures as I go. More to come.
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Old 01-15-2006, 05:29 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by holeshot
I build the spring over pads out of 2''x4''x3/16'' tubing. Cut tube to 5'' long. Used 2 1/2'' hole saw and drilled through center, then cut with grinder right down the middle, and now I had two spring over pads.
With a cut right down the middle the pads are now the same height, right? But doesn't the short side of the front axle housing have a bigger diameter? Wouldn't that make the ride height different side to side?

And it's a good and necessary write-up by the way. I wish I would have seen something like this before I dropped all that money on the RRO Bolt-on SPOA kit..

Great paint too!
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Old 01-15-2006, 10:25 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbtowery
With a cut right down the middle the pads are now the same height, right? But doesn't the short side of the front axle housing have a bigger diameter? Wouldn't that make the ride height different side to side?
You are correct, I should have mentioned this myself. The right side of the front axle is larger than the left, so the two front pads are differant.
I made all four pads the same and all at one time. with the right side front, I used a burr bit and opened up the pad untill it fit the axle, and was the same height as the left. had to take off about 1/2'' of meterial.
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Old 01-15-2006, 12:54 PM   #5
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Thanks. And I knew I had another question but couldn't think of it last night...

How do you determine what position to mount the new pads?
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Old 01-15-2006, 02:57 PM   #6
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Yeah, how did you measure for the correct pinion angle of the pads?
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Old 01-15-2006, 10:17 PM   #7
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Its not pinion angle I'm worried about on the front axle. You need to keep the Caster the same as it was in stock form. If the caster is changed rig wont steer correctly.
I will take pictures of how I do this when I set up the rear end.
All I do is set axle on saw horses, using the spring under pads to rest on saw horses. Set the new pads ontop of axle and measure from top of saw horse to top of new pad in front and back of pad. Adjust pad untell measurement is same front to rear. real simple. For side to side fitment I just eyeball it. The new and the old pads are almost touching so the side to side is very easy.
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Old 01-15-2006, 10:35 PM   #8
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I started today with the brake lines. Thay need to be legthined at least 6''. I have found a few differant options.
First is to extend stock line with a add on line. Found a good extension line at the wreckin yard. From the rear axle of a 1981 Toyota Corrola. Extension line has a female and a male end with correct flare had threads to fit the Samurai line. Extension is about 11'' long.
Upper line is stock Samurai front, lower line is stock Corrola rear. Only one of these lines per Toyota so you have to find 4 differant cars.



Here is the flare end, Just screw the two lines together





Here are some other options. Top line is SS line from Calmini it is 19'' long.
Middle line is another wreckin yard find. Its from a mid 90s Geo Storm, It is
17 1/4'' long. This line is just right for a basic spring over lift, and fits perfict into Samurai frame bracket.
Lower line is stock Samurai and stock Corrola coupled together. length is 22''
This one would be great if your doing missing links or coils.



I used the Geo Storm lines.
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Old 01-15-2006, 10:42 PM   #9
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Here you can see the Geo Storm line fits like a glove into the Samurai frame bracket.



Fitted to caliper.



Its a good idea to flip the spring center bolt around. I "C" clamp springs first. Then remove bolt turn around reinstall with some lock tite.

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Old 01-15-2006, 10:46 PM   #10
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Got the front axle under Samurai today, but still need to finish steering.
Going to install a half high steer using Mercedes steering arm and drop pitman.
Will do that tomorrow.

Heres a compairsion shot.

Before lift.



After lift.



More to come tomorrow.
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Old 01-15-2006, 10:51 PM   #11
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looks great, my dad just picked up a clean samurai that was towed behind a motorhome for most of it's life for $750. I see what your saying with the castor.
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Old 01-16-2006, 07:42 PM   #12
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Heres the Mercedes steering arms I got from the wrecking yard. Paid $13 for both. I only used the right side arm.



The Mercedes arm bols to the caliper mount. It is needed to open up one of the bolt holes in the arm. I used a burr bit to do this.
Will also need two new bolts a little longer than stock.





I just went to the hardware store and got the new bolts. You will need two differant length bolts to mount the arm.

Sizes are:
12x1.25x60mm
12x1.25x50mm
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Last edited by holeshot; 02-20-2008 at 10:58 PM.
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Old 01-16-2006, 07:53 PM   #13
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Heres the arm bolted to caliper.





This set up will put the drag link over the springs and the tie rod will stay under the springs.
Doing steering this way will get rid of all bump steer and will keep the stock Ackerman angle. With tie rod over the top of the springs the Ackerman angle is not correct.







I built the new drag link out of an aftermarket tie rod I had boughten from TT a few years ago. I just cut it to length needed and rethreaded the right side. Also replaced both TRE with new ends.
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Old 01-16-2006, 08:13 PM   #14
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I also used a drop pitman arm.



This got the drag link parallel with the tie rod.



You could get away without drop pitman, but I had one so I used it.

Front end is done just need to put tires back on. Rear end still left to do.



Also put on a set of aftermarket shackles. Shackles are 1'' longer than stock.
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Old 01-16-2006, 08:26 PM   #15
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Great job on using other parts! Keep the post & pictures coming!
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Old 01-16-2006, 08:57 PM   #16
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Great job on using inexpensive parts!

What ball joint does the Mercedes arm use?
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Old 01-17-2006, 12:48 AM   #17
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Nice work I like to read all your threads you always do into great detail. I'm going to coil my zuk so any of your build up threads you have on yours would be nice thanks. Keep up the great work.
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Old 01-17-2006, 07:27 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbtowery
What ball joint does the Mercedes arm use?
Thay use the same As the Samurai. Stock TRE are a perfect fit into Mercedes arm.
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Old 01-17-2006, 07:45 AM   #19
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Something I forgot to mention, is the lower shock mount. If you plan on using the stock shocks (like I'm doing) Than the lower shock mount bolt needs to be cut off u-bolt plate, fliped around and rewelded to u-bolt plate.



This only has to be done for the front axle. Because the two u-bolt plates are not the same size, so thay cant be swaped side to side. The rear u-bolt plates can be swaped side to side and the shock mount will be in correct location.
Also have to do the same cut of and reweld for the sway bar mounts if your going to reuse sway bar. I just cut those off and left off.

In this picture you can see the stock u-bolt plate without shock bolt and sway bar mount relocated. mounts are in wrong location for reuse.
If your using longer shocks and welding lower mounts to the axle tube, this is not an issue.This picture is the left side spring.

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Old 01-17-2006, 07:54 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by germ
Nice work I like to read all your threads you always do into great detail. I'm going to coil my zuk so any of your build up threads you have on yours would be nice thanks. Keep up the great work.

Sorry, but I didnt own a camera at the time I built my suspension so no pictures of the build.
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Old 01-18-2006, 11:59 PM   #21
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What model of mercedes can you get those arms from? That would sure help my bumpsteer from my draglink.
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Old 01-19-2006, 06:55 AM   #22
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Here is the models to use the high steer arms from

.126 S-Class Sedans Chassis Engine Model Years HP Weight WB
W126.032 M116.961 V8 380SE 1984-85 155 3685
W126.033 M116.961 V8 380SEL 1981-83 155 3640 121.1"
W126.035 M116.965 V8 420SEL 1986-91 201 3850
W126.037 M116.963 V8 500SEL 1984-85 184 3730
W126.039 M117.968 V8 560SEL 1986-91 238 4125
W126.120 M617.951 I5 300SD Turbodiesel 1981-85 120 3625
W126.125 M603.961 I6 300SDL Turbodiesel 1986-87 148 3835
126.025 103.981 I6 300SEL 1988-91 177 3630
126.024 103.981 I6 300SE 1989-91 177 3585
126.135 603.970 I6 350SDL Turbodiesel 1990-91 134 3850
126.134 603.970 I6 350SD Turbodiesel 1991 134

W126 Coupes Chassis Engine Model Years HP Weight
W126.043 M116.961 V8 380SEC 1982-83 155 3760
W126.044 M117.963 V8 500SEC 1984-85 187 3655
W126.045 M117.968 V8 560SEC 1986-91 238 3960
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Old 01-19-2006, 11:05 PM   #23
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Got the rear end out from uder the rig, preasured washed it and now is on the saw horses.
Heres the pictures to go along with the explanation of how I set the new spring over pads. Did this the same way for the front.
With spring under pads sitting on saw horses I measured from top of saw horse to top of new pad.



Then measured on other side of axle in same way. Ajust pad untill measurments are the same.



And thats it, Now just make sure pad is centered over the old pad and Start welding.

You can use an angle finder like this, but I perfer to use tape measure.



If using angle finder, you will need to measure the saw horses first to get a reference angle. I.E. my floor is sloped a little, so with angle finder on saw horses it reads -1%. So I would set pad to -1% Not to zero.
And this is all assuming that your stock spring under pads are sitting flat on saw horses and are not damaged or deformed.

I also like to remove the steel brake line from the axle housing when doing this. the brake lines are close to being in the way of the grinder and when welding on new pads.
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Old 01-21-2006, 06:08 PM   #24
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If your going to use the stock center pin (flipped over) drill the hole in the new pad to 9/16''.



To box in the ends of the pads, I cut 4 pieces of 1 1/2''x3/16''x1 3/4'' long flat stock. Round over the top edge of the pieces.
I used a magnet and just held piece in place while I tacked in place.



Then just weld on all sides.



Next I cut off the old spring under pads. Used cut off wheel, didnt want to put a bunch more heat on axle by using tourch.



Then used grinder to clean up area.



Rear end is all painted and ready to go back under rig.



Now just have to extend brake lines, bleed brakes, and build driveline spacers.
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Old 01-22-2006, 11:46 AM   #25
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That's nice work.
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