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Old 05-31-2017, 08:17 PM   #1026
Tan Zuk
 
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Finished up on converting the stock gas tank into a modern fuel cell. Getting ready to plumb the -6 hoses.

Here were the components used

Floatless sending unit. (Not a direct fit)
http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/pa...rod/prd346.htm

Intank Fuel Pump
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-18688




Decided to replumb the rear axle brake lines and add the gravel guard.

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Old 06-01-2017, 07:00 AM   #1027
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Nice work on the tank terry, may have to see about getting one made for mine in the future.
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Old 06-01-2017, 08:49 AM   #1028
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Was able to add back my lost pics and info only from another thread I have going as a backup. Just incase one of the Zuki sites crash.

Thanks Doug hope all the parts work as planned.

Here is a pic of the tank plumbed up.

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Old 06-01-2017, 03:53 PM   #1029
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Here is a pic of the tank plumbed up.


Nice work on the tank! I'm a little surprised you stuck with the stock tank though instead of going with the Petroworks or something custom. Even at 30mpg the stock tank is a bit small.


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Old 06-01-2017, 06:15 PM   #1030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cygnus x-1 View Post
Nice work on the tank! I'm a little surprised you stuck with the stock tank though instead of going with the Petroworks or something custom. Even at 30mpg the stock tank is a bit small.


C|
Thanks, it was a time consuming process reserching the parts and then fitting the aftermarket parts.

Reasons for sticking with stock tank

That was a new stock tank that was purchased fot the previous setup.

Had to custom make a couple of the tank mounts do to stretching the rear 3 inches.

With the rear axle pushed back 3 inches the tank is over the axle. The rig is high enough to clear the stock tank but the deeper PW tank would probably be a problem.

With the larger exhaust and the rest of the parts needed for the transplant there really isn't much room left.

The rear ride height would also be effected with the extra weight of the gas in the lager tank.

Getting old now so if the tank lasts 100 mile for a trip in the Zuk, that works just fine for me.

T
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Old 06-03-2017, 11:44 PM   #1031
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After having to redo the lines 3 times. Decided it would be better to take a different approach to cut wasted time and product on the rest of the lines.

This seems to be working much better since I don't complete my 1st idea that comes up. Just make a piece or 2 and take a day or so to look at different options. Doing it this way gives you plenty of time to see what will work better by adding a little at a time and make adjustments as needed.

Got my new favorate tool called a nut rivet gun. Works great for making attachment points on the sheet metal of the Zuk.

This was my solution to get more room and keep the exhaust heat away from the brake lines.








Here is the nut rivet gun which was used to make secure attachments to the firewall






There was a window needed to be cut in the fenderwell. This ways to make it easier to install the braidef hose. These lines are DOT approved and good for 300 degree heat.




Had to make another remote PS reservoir bracket, since it now needed to be lpcated on the passenger side. Still had a chunk of aluminum left that was cut off the A/C bracket. Used it to make a cap to cover origanal steel cap the reservior came with, big improvement.




This is where slowing down and lookung at the problem worked well for me with several ideas to build off of. After a couple of days looking at how the fuel lines were going to run up the firewall to the fuel pressure gauge and head back over to the fuel rail. Part of the solution was using a slotted indexing fuel hose sand off bracket to keep the hoses in position.


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Old 06-04-2017, 12:24 PM   #1032
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Good Lord...Nice!
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Old 06-09-2017, 04:30 PM   #1033
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Good Lord...Nice!
Yeah, it is taking on a life of its own, squeezing all these parts in a small space and make them look like they belong. This has been quite the challenge.

T
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Old 06-09-2017, 04:34 PM   #1034
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New home for the coil packs.

The stock location was not an option, since the upper radiator needed this area to function. After looking at several new locations ended up centering the coil pack on the firewall. This task was accomplished after making a tricky mounting bracket.. Oh, forgot to mention that the rivet nut gun was used for the anchore points.

Thought this was a good spot since the plug wires would be equal lengths to each other. Should help a lot with heat as well because it is not mounted to the motor.

Probably go with the MSD coils, they are red and some red plug wires to add a little color to the engine compartment.



Here is a front view shot showing the coil packs center mounting location on the firewall.

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Old 06-10-2017, 09:50 AM   #1035
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All I can say is Sweet For Days!!!! Some very elegant solutions! I do enjoy reading about your build Terry. Thanks for the updates.
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Old 07-12-2017, 02:27 AM   #1036
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Still at it.

New Coil Packs


Spark plug wires and loom issues


ZZP Covers were bought to mount the spark plug wires to. This was to keep the excess heat off the wires.


Going to be doing 250amp alternator upgrade and heat hose delete


Upgraded the modified supercharger throttle body intake tube mounting threads to a 1/4x20 SS threaded inserts. Probably going to add (2) 1/4 dowels to help support the weight of the tube and throttle body.



Its time to cleaning up and refurbish the superchager and fuel rails. Had to get a new set of rotor packs since the coating was starting to flake off.



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Old 07-12-2017, 09:47 AM   #1037
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Keep it up. Nice
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Old 07-12-2017, 10:06 AM   #1038
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Perfection.

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Old 07-12-2017, 01:45 PM   #1039
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A 250A alternator? Are you powering a small city?

That is going to be one shiny engine!

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Old 07-12-2017, 05:11 PM   #1040
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Thanks for the support Wayne and mroggenstein. Just took a little elbow grease to get these nasty looking 18 year old engine parts to be more presentable.

Wasn't planning to polish the parts at fist. Found a product called Shark Hide which is a type of coating that seals all types of metals from the eliments. Shoudn't have to do any polishing for a couple of year.

T
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Old 07-12-2017, 05:25 PM   #1041
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cygnus x-1 View Post
A 250A alternator? Are you powering a small city?


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Well, with 3 fans up front on the radiator and the A/C. There is also another fan on the trans cooler. The 250amp alternator should beable to keep the draw of fans spooled up enough to keep things running cool, along with all the extra electrical components.

Been through this when building hot rods. The engines will run hot if there isn't enough amps to keep the fans at the proper fan speed.

Thanks for the question.

T
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Old 07-13-2017, 03:43 PM   #1042
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tan Zuk View Post
Well, with 3 fans up front on the radiator and the A/C. There is also another fan on the trans cooler. The 250amp alternator should beable to keep the draw of fans spooled up enough to keep things running cool, along with all the extra electrical components.

Been through this when building hot rods. The engines will run hot if there isn't enough amps to keep the fans at the proper fan speed.

Thanks for the question.

T

That is a lot of fans. And if you have a winch it certainly doesn't hurt to have as much alternator as you can get.

These guys even have a 350A version!

http://store.alternatorparts.com/350...lternator.aspx


And here I thought upgrading to 105A was a big deal.


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Old 07-13-2017, 10:26 PM   #1043
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cygnus x-1 View Post

These guys even have a 350A version!

http://store.alternatorparts.com/350...lternator.aspx



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Yeah, I was on that site when reaserching alternators. Going to avoid the external rectifier option, since it may have a clearence problem with the valve covers. Really don't want to have to remove the alternator if the valve cover needs to come off. This is the same problem that the stock bracket and alternator assembly has, since it also hangs over the front portion of the valve cover.

Been getting my alternators built locally for years. Probably going to go that route again, this saves alot of headaches if you get one sent to you that has issues.

Nice Chat.

T
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Old 07-17-2017, 02:57 PM   #1044
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tan Zuk View Post
Yeah, I was on that site when reaserching alternators. Going to avoid the external rectifier option, since it may have a clearence problem with the valve covers. Really don't want to have to remove the alternator if the valve cover needs to come off. This is the same problem that the stock bracket and alternator assembly has, since it also hangs over the front portion of the valve cover.

Been getting my alternators built locally for years. Probably going to go that route again, this saves alot of headaches if you get one sent to you that has issues.

Nice Chat.

T

I can't say I like the external rectifier design either. It looks a bit hokey to me. I'm sure it works fine but... meh.


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Old 07-26-2017, 03:18 PM   #1045
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Machining spark plug wire sandoff and looms to mount to the ZZP valve covers.







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Old 07-26-2017, 07:51 PM   #1046
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That is sweet Terry
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Old 07-31-2017, 08:30 PM   #1047
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That is sweet Terry
Thanks Doug,
Got to say it is getting harder to come up with ideas to get all these parts working together.



Just curious if you have access to one of those plastic spring tension setting tools for the by-pass valve actuator. I have the GM special tool p/n, just haven't been able to locate one.

Terry
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Old 07-31-2017, 08:32 PM   #1048
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Finally finished running the plugs wires, along with all the wire looms and mounting brackets.





Rear head wire loom and bracket






Spark plug wires run throu passenger side looms

Last edited by Tan Zuk; 08-01-2017 at 12:50 AM.
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Old 08-06-2017, 12:41 PM   #1049
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This used to be a combination bracket which functioned as an:
1. Attachment point for the front side dog bone bracket used for the Pontiac motor.
2. Coil Pack mounting plate.
3 Belt tensioner

The problem with the mounting ear cutoff for the dog bone and the coil packs relocated, you end up with this nasty looking belt tensioner. This has been bugging me for a quite awhile now. To start off with there is no real way to cut it down, since it is heavly gusseted for the belt tensioner and pulleys.

Even order one from another make GM family 3.8l minus the dog bone ear and coil pack mout that wouldn't bolt up to the head.







So, after looking at this nasty bracket for way too long, Here was the fix, decided to machine up a cover to kind of get it to blend in better. Well, its done.

It seems to look smaller in person and may even be able to use it for some attachment points.

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