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Old 06-13-2015, 06:37 PM   #1
melbakid
 
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Over heating like a big dog!

Decided to head up to Silver City, ID this morning with my father in law. Loaded up the 10/22's and headed to Murphy to have breakfast at the Murphy General Store and Caf. Left Murphy for Silver City, about 7 miles up the Silver City Road, Goldilocks starts over heating like a big dog!!!!! Its 72 degrees outside, two days ago it was 99 degrees and no problems when driving into Boise.

I pull over to see what the problem is. When I open the hood the radiator is boiling water out into the catch bottle and the bottle is leaking. I figure that this has been going on for a while and the radiator is low because it could not suck back coolant when it started to cool because the overflow bottle is leaking. No big deal. There is a creek right next to us in the canyon with plenty of water. We empty out the ammo can and fill it with fresh water and wait for the engine to cool down. After an hour I have the FIL start the motor and I slowly pour in the creek water. Everything looks good to go. We take off up the mountain and in five minutes its over heating again. We decide to turn around and head back home. The temp is running high. but is not in the red. All the way home the gauge is running about 7/8 of way up the gauge. It has never done this before.

The day before I had replaced the distributor O-rings. I thought maybe the timing was too far advanced and causing the motor to run hot. Nope, that wasn't it, timing was dead-on at 10 degrees and idle at 800 RPM. I went to Auto Zone and picked up a new 180 t-stat, gasket and 13lb rad cap. Installed those, topped off the coolant and headed back to Silver City. Before we drove 7 miles it was over heating again, only now just below the lower red line on the gauge.

I have no idea what is going on. The Zuk is running really good except for the overheating part. It has never done this since I have owned it, almost 2 years now. Any help would be appreciated. As we were starting out this morning I was commenting to my FIL about how good the Zuk was running and that I finally cured the steering shake at 40 MPH.(replaced the draglink, tie rod assembly, drivers side tie rod and set the toe in.) Taking care of one problem at a time and now this overheating gremlin rears its ugly head!

Last edited by melbakid; 06-13-2015 at 06:52 PM. Reason: Goldilocks is a stock 1988.5 Samurai soft top. I don't know why my sig is not showing up.
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Old 06-13-2015, 11:36 PM   #2
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Update

I changed out the t-stat with a fail safe style. If it fails, it will stay open instead of closing.
I replaced the rad cap with a 13 lb model.
It is still over heating, now it just seems worse.
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There are only two types of Samurai's: Those we need and those we want!
9/13 Goldilocks-1988.5 Samurai Soft top, bone stock, 29s on 15x7's
2/15 Red Ryder-1988.5 Samurai TT-SPOA w/ stock springs, 4.16 TC w/Twisted TT, 29's on 15x8's, Calmini OTT, OME steering stabilizer, Mighty Kong II
11/13 1995 Sidekick 2WD 5SP 4DR (future parts car)
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Old 06-14-2015, 10:20 AM   #3
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Assuming is a Zuk engine you are using, I am thinking the coolant system is not maintaining adequate pressure; boiling water shouldn't be coming out anywhere.

Check for coolant leaks, possibly have the system pressure tested...
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Old 06-14-2015, 01:02 PM   #4
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Start with the basics, CHeck the radiator flow, is the lower radiator hose collapsing? how old is the radiator. How old is the water pump? I've seen water pumps not make a noise, but the impeller was completely gone. You've done a radiator cap, and checked time good start.

After checking all the other stuff, then move on to an internal engine issue. I.E. head gasket check. If you have an old school mechanic shop, the might have a chemical block tester. Napa sells the kit too. It will tell you if combustion gas is getting into the cooling system. the other method as Described by MY is to use shop air and pressurize the cylinder at TDC and look for bubbles in the radiator. My other favorite way is to pressurize the cooling system with the spark plugs removed. use a pressure tester, and check for a drop in pressure, do this a few times and crank the engine over if coolant is getting into the cylinder it will get pump out when you crank the engine with the plugs out. This will also show which cylinder has the problem.
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Old 06-15-2015, 10:50 AM   #5
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I would go to nappa and get a block leak tester. If your cooling system is getting filled with exhaust gasses it will act like its overheating. If its good the solution changes color you have internal issues.
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Old 06-15-2015, 11:29 AM   #6
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FYI, if anyone is interested, Hussey Performance is back in business, and making Suzuki 1.3 and 1.6 head gaskets. I pick mine up for 80 dollar each. The guy at SRD is selling them for 150 each..
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1986 SCORE Class 3 Samurai with DOHC 1.3L Crower Cam & Rods, Fabbed Block girdle, ghetto block guard, GSXR600 ITB's Custom one off header. The Hybrid of Hybrid rear axles with ford 9" Spool and 28 spline axles, Nissan 240SX brakes, Hybrid front axle (in the process of fabbing) Snatch, Panty Liner, Twin Stick, Stage 3 clutch, MicroSquirt, FLIR, Lowrance Navigation, Yaesu 2 way, Parker Air, Sigtronic intercom.
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Old 06-16-2015, 11:34 AM   #7
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Well, thanks for the input guys. I'm off to the local NAPA store and see if they have the chemical for the rad to detect exhaust gases. Also a good excuse to ride my cruiser.
Nagtrainer do you have a URL for Hussey? If it shows exhaust in the coolant I will need to change the head gasket.
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There are only two types of Samurai's: Those we need and those we want!
9/13 Goldilocks-1988.5 Samurai Soft top, bone stock, 29s on 15x7's
2/15 Red Ryder-1988.5 Samurai TT-SPOA w/ stock springs, 4.16 TC w/Twisted TT, 29's on 15x8's, Calmini OTT, OME steering stabilizer, Mighty Kong II
11/13 1995 Sidekick 2WD 5SP 4DR (future parts car)
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Old 06-16-2015, 11:44 AM   #8
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Hussey Performance

http://husseyperformance.net/

I believe Suz-10 is the part number.
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1986 SCORE Class 3 Samurai with DOHC 1.3L Crower Cam & Rods, Fabbed Block girdle, ghetto block guard, GSXR600 ITB's Custom one off header. The Hybrid of Hybrid rear axles with ford 9" Spool and 28 spline axles, Nissan 240SX brakes, Hybrid front axle (in the process of fabbing) Snatch, Panty Liner, Twin Stick, Stage 3 clutch, MicroSquirt, FLIR, Lowrance Navigation, Yaesu 2 way, Parker Air, Sigtronic intercom.
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Old 06-16-2015, 09:31 PM   #9
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Thanks Nagtrainer. Down loaded Hussey's catalog. Also was able to find the coolant exhaust check kit at NAPA. Will try to do the check on Thursday.
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There are only two types of Samurai's: Those we need and those we want!
9/13 Goldilocks-1988.5 Samurai Soft top, bone stock, 29s on 15x7's
2/15 Red Ryder-1988.5 Samurai TT-SPOA w/ stock springs, 4.16 TC w/Twisted TT, 29's on 15x8's, Calmini OTT, OME steering stabilizer, Mighty Kong II
11/13 1995 Sidekick 2WD 5SP 4DR (future parts car)
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Old 06-17-2015, 08:22 AM   #10
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The nice thing about copper Head gaskets is if the head is close just clean and old stuff off and bolt it on. they're more forgiving than a regular head gasket. I can tell ya a story about my G13BB and the head gasket issues there.
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1986 SCORE Class 3 Samurai with DOHC 1.3L Crower Cam & Rods, Fabbed Block girdle, ghetto block guard, GSXR600 ITB's Custom one off header. The Hybrid of Hybrid rear axles with ford 9" Spool and 28 spline axles, Nissan 240SX brakes, Hybrid front axle (in the process of fabbing) Snatch, Panty Liner, Twin Stick, Stage 3 clutch, MicroSquirt, FLIR, Lowrance Navigation, Yaesu 2 way, Parker Air, Sigtronic intercom.
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Old 06-18-2015, 08:03 PM   #11
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I'm a big proponent for copper gaskets. I use them on my headers and collectors on my 95 Impala SS, 55 Chevy, and 50 Merc Flathead engine in my 37 Ford. I love them!
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There are only two types of Samurai's: Those we need and those we want!
9/13 Goldilocks-1988.5 Samurai Soft top, bone stock, 29s on 15x7's
2/15 Red Ryder-1988.5 Samurai TT-SPOA w/ stock springs, 4.16 TC w/Twisted TT, 29's on 15x8's, Calmini OTT, OME steering stabilizer, Mighty Kong II
11/13 1995 Sidekick 2WD 5SP 4DR (future parts car)
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Old 06-19-2015, 08:40 AM   #12
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Me too, very for giving. if the head or block isn't perfect they still seal real well and hold to some serious pressure.
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1986 SCORE Class 3 Samurai with DOHC 1.3L Crower Cam & Rods, Fabbed Block girdle, ghetto block guard, GSXR600 ITB's Custom one off header. The Hybrid of Hybrid rear axles with ford 9" Spool and 28 spline axles, Nissan 240SX brakes, Hybrid front axle (in the process of fabbing) Snatch, Panty Liner, Twin Stick, Stage 3 clutch, MicroSquirt, FLIR, Lowrance Navigation, Yaesu 2 way, Parker Air, Sigtronic intercom.
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