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Old 01-24-2017, 12:01 AM   #1001
melbakid
 
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TZ,
You must be slowing down. I noticed a little flash rust on your bend over exhaust area! It's hell getting old.
I haven't touched my Zuk in 4 weeks. We have only had 2 days in the last 30 days above freezing. We got another 4" of snow today. No heat or power in the shop. Makes it tough to get motivated when the tools are so cold it makes your hands sting.

I have a little 2000 watt Honda generator for the shop that doesn't run, I will have to pull the carb and clean it out, then change the oil. I think I will wait until we have a couple of days above freezing.

With all my free time today I read through the build starting with the arrival of the V6 S/C motor. Very impressive I must say. Then I read Quarterpastgone's build up, man you guys must be masochist's to put yourself through all that work!! to both of you.
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9/13 Goldilocks-1988.5 Samurai Soft top, bone stock, 29ís on 15x7's
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11/13 1995 Sidekick 2WD 5SP 4DR (future parts car)
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Old 01-26-2017, 10:19 PM   #1002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by melbakid View Post
TZ,
Then I read Quarterpastgone's build up, man you guys must be masochist's to put yourself through all that work!! to both of you.

Yes I was having the same feeling when everyone was trying to convince me to do the L67 swap after the poltergeis gremlin noise issues.
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Old 01-26-2017, 10:20 PM   #1003
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Got a few more parts in today B&M High Tech Trans Cooler with fan and a Derale Remote Trans Filter. Good thing there isn't too many more parts that need to live in this rear section since there isnt much space left.

Going to have to come up with a more creative way to run the trans and fuel lines, since the frame rails are being used for the trans and t-case mounts. Thinking about making a bar that mounts to the upper middle side of the trans starting at the bellhousing and stretches back to the t-case. The fuel and trans lines will be held in place with some aluminum split clamps. This will keep the hose tucked up in the tunnel area and the fuel lines can be routed up the back of the block to the fuel rails. Anyway thats the plan for now.

Finishing up on the exhaust now and installing a couple of universal hangers for the pipe sections. The muffler will be getting a custom set of mounts made that attach in 4 spots toward the outer corners using exhaust hanger grommets. This should keep everthing in place, since the muffler and pipe will be clamped instead of welded together.

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Old 01-27-2017, 09:51 AM   #1004
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Terry I used AeroQuip flex lock fuel lines to the engine and did not used any hard line. This will make routing way easier. Factor GM trucks and Full size SUV's have their line on top of the trans from the factory. Photo buck has been giving some fit this week so I will get you those picture tonight.
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Old 01-27-2017, 01:25 PM   #1005
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Very nice utilization of space with the filter and cooler.
X2 on using the flex line for the filter and cooler. This will give you much more flexibility with mounting and still look trick. I like the aluminum 2 piece clamps with the center screw. I used these for brake lines and fuel lines on my 55 Chevy 2DR sedan.
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9/13 Goldilocks-1988.5 Samurai Soft top, bone stock, 29ís on 15x7's
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11/13 1995 Sidekick 2WD 5SP 4DR (future parts car)
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Old 01-27-2017, 05:35 PM   #1006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quarterpastgone View Post
Terry I used AeroQuip flex lock fuel lines to the engine and did not used any hard line. This will make routing way easier. Factor GM trucks and Full size SUV's have their line on top of the trans from the factory. Photo buck has been giving some fit this week so I will get you those picture tonight.
Thanks Doug for the info, was already thinking about using the AreoQuip fuel hoses. Guess since the factory runs the lines in this configuration, dont feel like it is a bad solution for me then.

I hear you about photobucket issues. I get in a bad mood as soon as I try and log in. Been having issues with the ZK with long script errors, that wastes alot of time as well along with going through 3 cameras as well. Have been tempted several times to stop posting all together, snce it is taking longer to post the progress then dothe work.

When ever you get a chance with th extra pics is fine. Have got alot of your pics from the build thread copied that I blow up to look at, sometimes they just don't have a good angle to get all the info.

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Old 01-27-2017, 05:41 PM   #1007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by melbakid View Post
Very nice utilization of space with the filter and cooler.
X2 on using the flex line for the filter and cooler. This will give you much more flexibility with mounting and still look trick. I like the aluminum 2 piece clamps with the center screw. I used these for brake lines and fuel lines on my 55 Chevy 2DR sedan.
The parts are just set in place to give me an idea what Im working with. The rails being used to support the cooler ae just sitting in place and the filter is just hanging from an extra mounting bolt.
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Old 01-28-2017, 09:15 PM   #1008
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Had a few questions about exhaust hangers. Got to say sometimes it is tough to make an idea come to life when working on the fly. Got ahead of myself twice since there were several pieces that needed to be made and welded together. Then keep all the pieces to stay in place while doing the finish welding. Just to make it just abit more interesting everything was at an angle and the bracket for the muffler needed to match the outer ribbed contour of the muffler.

Started on the duel mount muffler hanger. The muffler is hung by the outer edges which helps it stay in position and not twist, since the pipe and muffler will be clamped together.

Was going to make another duel hanger for the other end of the muffler. May only need just the 1 along with a couple universal hangers on the pipe.





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Old 01-29-2017, 12:56 PM   #1009
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Terry,
The blue isolator, will it take the heat soak from the muffler? One of the things that I was taught about exhaust was heat expansion. My old next door neighbor back in California was a mechanic/fabricator for Flowmaster. He told me that the factory style rod hanger that would slide in rubber bushings was really the best way to go. Flowmaster found that with SS exhaust that the high linear expansion form heat would ruin most mounts. They started making their exhaust with the moveable mounts rather than fixed mounts.

Just a thought for your exhaust with the S/C setup and all.
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There are only two types of Samurai's: Those we need and those we want!
9/13 Goldilocks-1988.5 Samurai Soft top, bone stock, 29ís on 15x7's
2/15 Red Ryder-1988.5 Samurai TT-SPOA w/ stock springs, 4.16 TC w/Twisted TT, 29's on 15x8's, Calmini OTT, OME steering stabilizer, Mighty Kong II
11/13 1995 Sidekick 2WD 5SP 4DR (future parts car)
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Old 01-29-2017, 02:05 PM   #1010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by melbakid View Post
Terry,
The blue isolator, will it take the heat soak from the muffler? One of the things that I was taught about exhaust was heat expansion. My old next door neighbor back in California was a mechanic/fabricator for Flowmaster. He told me that the factory style rod hanger that would slide in rubber bushings was really the best way to go. Flowmaster found that with SS exhaust that the high linear expansion form heat would ruin most mounts. They started making their exhaust with the moveable mounts rather than fixed mounts.

Just a thought for your exhaust with the S/C setup and all.

They are called exhaust grommets and used to hang exhaust systems.

BTW the exhaust is not SS it is 16g mild steel that will be ceramic coated excluding the Muffler.

Here is the info on them

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/stw-exgro

Last edited by Tan Zuk; 01-29-2017 at 02:24 PM.
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Old 01-29-2017, 02:47 PM   #1011
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This is off topic


Been having alot of trouble with long scripting errors when logging into the ZK recently. This was adding 3x the amount of time going from page to page and posting, almost like having dialup.

Finally figured out how to fix the problem for thoses using Kaspersky Internet Security. Since I got a new version recently apperently it doesn't like the box banner at the top of each page causing the hang times. I needed to allow the banners for the ZK and also had troubles with ebay as well with the banners that also needed to be allowed.

Just thought I would pass this on incase anyone else was having issues.
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Old 01-29-2017, 05:45 PM   #1012
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Think there are a couple of hackers on the ZK board. here is the translation of the above post on my thread.

Found here hacking page in Friendster prog for opening Classmates can in two clicks get password from your profile page, and to learn from someone else's information as well as looked: video from the author here on YouTube
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Old 05-31-2017, 04:34 PM   #1013
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Going to try and add back the lost portion of the build

Last edited by Tan Zuk; 05-31-2017 at 07:21 PM.
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Old 05-31-2017, 04:35 PM   #1014
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There were a few questions about the grommets being used and may not hold up to the heat.

They are specifically made to be used to hang exhaust systems.

Here is the info

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/stw-exgro
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Old 05-31-2017, 07:09 PM   #1015
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Since there have been questions about the grommets not holding up to the heat of the muffler. Decided to do a non scientic heat test using the DD.
The grommet was layed on top of the muffler and the DD was (ONLY) idling for 20 min. The pic of the testing proceedure was taken with the motor still running. Notice my hand on the muffler to show how hot the muffler was and the grommet on top of the muffler.

I know the DD doesnt have an L67 supercharged motor and it wasn't being driven hard. As stated non scientic heat test.

When the welding was being done on the mounting brackets, there was just (1) grommet used for spacing purposes. It did show some melting but the bracket material was red hot. If the exhaust gets that hot during usage, will have more things to worry about then the grommets melting.





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Old 05-31-2017, 07:10 PM   #1016
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It is time to make a decision on external or internal fuel pump. Since the budget went out the window awhile ago decided to give the Aeromotive Phantom 340 fuel system a shot and an Aeromotive an-6 fitting 10 micron filter.

Quarterpastgone has be kind enough to share info with me when needed. He is using an external pump and has had no issues. Just decided to try something different for another option if the budget is already blown.

Will be using the Zuk tank, since it was bought new awhile ago. With the Aeromotive sytem the fuel out, return fuel in and breather are in the top portion of the pump. This keeps from having to use the fittings on the tank that may be of different size then what might be needed. Delt with that mess when doing the GSXR setup.

Think while Im at it going to switch over to a universal 0-90 ohm sending unit and ditch that odd ohm Zuk one.

Pump
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...=Newest&page=3

Filter
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...commendedparts

Youtube Video of install
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WzQr...#t=816.9380206
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Old 05-31-2017, 07:12 PM   #1017
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Some Progress even with the usual after market part fitment issues.

Needed to machine a new bolt circle for the new floatless sender. Did like that this sender came in 1" increment lengths. My tank was 10" ordered the 9" sender which gives about a gallon reserve after E.

Slapped the tank on the mill for the new bolt circle.


Also needed to make a centering sleeve to keep the sender centered in the old sender hole for machining.


Cut a piece off the waste
block from the A/C bracket to use for the fuel filter rail pinch bracket.

Trans Cooler and Filter frame mounting rail.


Ni-Copp 3/8 hardlines and AN-6 to tube fittings were used. Adel rubber isolater clamps were used to mount the hard lines.


Decited to use disconnect fittings to run the lines along the frame rails and under the trans mount. If the trans mount needs to be removed the lines can be removed at the disconnect fittings.


Here is a bottom side pic of the trans cooler, filter, fuel filter, hard lines and mounting rail in place. Alot of stuff in a small place.
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Old 05-31-2017, 07:13 PM   #1018
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Had a question about keeping the exhaust heat away from the trans cooler.

Had the same concerns when looking for a spot for the trans cooler. The cooler instruction say minimum 6" from headers for clearence, (the muffer is much cooler then the headers). I had 6" between the muffler and cooler, until the fuel filter needed more room. Its now at 5" and less at the hard lines.

So, started my reaserch and found a place that makes all types of heat sheiding, wraps and barriers for exhaust.

(The kevlar blanket wrap is what I plan on using around the muffler).

The cooler hard lines running along side the muffler were more of a concern now. The trans cooler needed to be orientated in this configuration per instruction for proper fuild flow. My choice would have been to flip the cooler so the lines were towards the frame.

Got another plan for the cooler lines for heat protection. Going to add a piece of sheat metal to the trans cooler rail mount between the muffler and hard lines as a shield and use some of the (self stick) heat barrier to take care of that issue. Plan on using the same stuff on the D/S gas tank to sheild it from the heat from the tailpipe.




Here is a place that sells the heat shielding for those interested in the products being used.

http://www.thermotec.com/products/all.html


My biggest concern is throwing a driveshaft front or rear, which would be a real mess since all the fluids are run next to them.
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Old 05-31-2017, 07:34 PM   #1019
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Still at it.
Ran into a few obsticles running the brake and fuel lines. Decided to start off by getting the removable trans cooler rail mounted, painted and bolted in. The rail had a heat sheild added between the cooler lines and muffler.

Will be adding 3/8" heat shielding pipe wrap to the cooler lines and also adding some stick on heat barrier to the sheet metal heat shield for added protection.



Needed to come up with a better way of running the brake lines, since there are headers on both sides now. Using the bulky oversided stock brake distribution block was not an option and the mounting bracket was too close to the exhaust.

Reconfigured the line locations in the new brake distribution block and was able to move it back about 4" away from the exhaust. The P/S front brake line will be run under the rail to keep it away from the exhaust. There will be a rock sheild added and some 3/16" heat shielding pipe wrap for protection.

Next obsticle, going to have to scallop out a spot in both frame rails to clear the radiator for the brake lines. Need them ran as low as posible since there will be A/C and P/S hoses running along the top frame rails




Couple of pics of the lines that have been run

Not sure on fuel lines yet, need to wait to see what room is left. They will probably be a combination of 3/8" Nicopp and -6an hose.



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Old 05-31-2017, 08:13 PM   #1020
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I found that there needs to be even more planning involved when running lines and configuring new parts in a small space. The brake, trans cooler and fuel lines have really had me working for solutions.
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Old 05-31-2017, 08:14 PM   #1021
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After looking at the short disconnect trans lines running along the rail for a couple of weeks. They were going to have to be reconfigured to make room for the fuel and return lines. Like this routing much better and leaves plenty of room for other options.

Really have to think 100 moves ahead when planning where parts need to live and play nice with their neighbors.
OR
You will find yourself scratching your head a whole lot more coming up with a solution.

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Old 05-31-2017, 08:14 PM   #1022
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Well 3rd try on the trans lines seemed to be the best way to go, which was my original idea. The easy way proved to be a waste of time and materials.Waiting on more hard line to finish the upper line.

The trans is now protecting most of hard line, since it is run much higher and off the rail. Gravel Guard was added to help with some added protection.

Added a short piece of -6 hose by the horse collar for flex between frame mounted hard lines and the trans mounted hard lines. With the hard line attached to the trans now, this will limit movent to 1 position by the horse collar.

Still need to make a couple of clamp mounting brackets to secure the hard lines to the trans.

The plus sides
The -6 hose and hard line still has a disconnect to keep the hard line short for removing the trans.
The trans mount can also be removed without messing with the cooler lines now.
Have more flex in lines with the -6 hose.
Better protection from front driveshaft and road debris.

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Old 05-31-2017, 08:15 PM   #1023
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It was tougher coming up with away to secure the cooler lines routing them next to the trans. Thats why this routing was chosen last but was my 1st choice, just couldn't come up with away to secure the lines at the time.

Notice there have been SS Gravel Guard added to the hard lines to protect the softer nicopp hard line being used.













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Old 05-31-2017, 08:15 PM   #1024
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Finally finshed with the trans cooler lines and hoses!!









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Old 05-31-2017, 08:16 PM   #1025
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I call it the Expressway


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