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Old 12-29-2011, 10:41 AM   #1
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Zuk on 38's

Hi Everyone,

I live in Pompano Beach, Florida and this is my Bucket List Build.

It is a bit over the top so I hope you like it.

I will start off with the before and in progress pics because it is still being built.


Before completely stock from California






Completely stripped and repainted inside and out.





Shrockworks bumper and custom fiberglass valance





Rear View


Last edited by Tan Zuk; 02-25-2012 at 10:00 PM.
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Old 12-29-2011, 10:47 AM   #2
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Here are the suspension and drive train stats:

88" wheelbase, 84 inches tall, 82 inches wide.

Front frame extended 8 inches rear 3 inches

4 1/2 inch YJ lifted springs

Toyo 38's and 16x12 wheels

85 Toy front axle with all Trail Gear inners including Trunion Bearing Eliminator
529 gears open and High Pinion, 6 Shooter Knuckles with High Steer and 1 inch
Space.r

Rear axle is Trail Gear offset Sami Toy housing, 529 gears open and 1.5 spacers,
Rear Disk Brake, Outboard Shocks.

FJ80 steering box, Panhard bar and Rancho 9000 36" length.

ZOR Snatch

6.5 Transfer Case Gears

The trans will also be gone through

No driveshafts yet

Last edited by Tan Zuk; 02-25-2012 at 10:01 PM.
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Old 12-29-2011, 10:51 AM   #3
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Here is the motor. I have a machine shop and machined a lot of the parts for the motor.

Here is the Before Pic





After











6061 Aluminum Intake

( This ways a solid block and weighed 35 pounds )

When it was finished it was 8 pounds










************************************************** ******







HERE IS A LINK TO HEAR THE MOTOR RUNNING!!!!!!!:



http://www.skyscomputers.com/picture...uk%20Motor.wmv

Last edited by Tan Zuk; 02-25-2012 at 10:04 PM.
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Old 12-29-2011, 10:55 AM   #4
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Motor: 1.3 .020 over and deck shaved,


I used dish pistons because of the decking,

1.6 Reynolds ported polished and larger valves and shaved head.

Adjustable timing gear was used because of the shaving of the head and block.

I also had to make a custom timing adjuster wheel. It was too small in diameter and was unable to get the timing belt tight.

Internals are balanced and flywheel,

I'm going to use a Centerforce clutch this time.

The intake was made from a solid block of 6061. It started at 35 pounds when the machining was done it was 8 pounds. I also decided to machine the water ports in the manifold.

The carbs are 32mm Katana GSX-F.

The external accessories on the motor I have also machined up.

The distributor has been switched to mechanical.

Last edited by Tan Zuk; 02-25-2012 at 10:05 PM.
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Old 12-29-2011, 10:55 AM   #5
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Nice Build! Welcome to ZK
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Old 12-29-2011, 10:57 AM   #6
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Nice Build! Welcome to ZK
Thanks for the compliment and the Welcome.
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Old 12-29-2011, 11:05 AM   #7
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read your build on zuwharrie nice to see you on ZK and as always
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Old 12-29-2011, 11:07 AM   #8
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Very nice work! I love clean tintops!
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Old 12-29-2011, 11:39 AM   #9
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Purdy stuff!

welcome to the ZK..be a shame to get mud all over it.I see lots of broken Birfs in your future them Toyos are SUPER HEAVY tires,they love to break parts
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Old 12-29-2011, 12:11 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by midwestracer View Post
read your build on zuwharrie nice to see you on ZK and as always
Hey midwestracer,

Glad to see you found the new thread. I will not be posting on the Zu any more I posted the new thread over there so people that were still interested could still follow along.

Thanks for stopping by.
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Old 12-29-2011, 12:15 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockmike View Post
Purdy stuff!

welcome to the ZK..be a shame to get mud all over it.I see lots of broken Birfs in your future them Toyos are SUPER HEAVY tires,they love to break parts
Thanks for the heads up on the tires. I have the TG dirty 30's so if there is a problem they are covered by warranty. This will probably be a pavement pounder most of the time any way. I have another DD TT if I want to mess around.
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Old 12-29-2011, 01:10 PM   #12
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I also do fiberglass work ( Not By Choice)

After installing the front Shrock Work bumper it looked like it was missing something. I decided to make a lower valance to conceal the 8” frame extension. I’m also getting a bit older and needed an additional step. I decided to make some running boards for the 2nd step. The back tire is being used as the 1st.

The bumpers, fiberglass pieces and the body moldings were Rhino Lined to match the paint for durability.


Front Lower Valance




Side View Running Board




Rear Side View Running Boards


Last edited by Tan Zuk; 02-23-2012 at 03:21 PM.
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Old 12-29-2011, 01:22 PM   #13
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Front Frame Extension is 8 and is level to the ground instead of following the frame. I also smooth out all my welds. This tends to add a lot more time to a build just my preference.





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Old 12-29-2011, 01:37 PM   #14
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Very nice build
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Old 12-29-2011, 01:44 PM   #15
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ya I have been on ZK for a little while now it is also a great site seems like there are more people closer to me on here was feeling lonely on the ZU keep up the good work
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Old 12-29-2011, 02:34 PM   #16
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The reason for starting this thread was to show the potential problems that you will encounter when attempting to build a rig on 38's without molesting it.


A little about my background:

I have been a machinist for 32 years and have a small shop that I putter in. I have built many Hot Rods, Custom Motorcycles and a few 4x4. I thought that giving another approach in making parts for the issues that you encounter could possibly help others.
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Old 12-29-2011, 02:53 PM   #17
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The Rig is rather high as you can see. This presented some unique problems trying to get the steering geometry setup without a steep angle. I will go through the mods and the parts that needed to be made to correct the problems in the next couple of posts.


I also have an unusual steering set up with the FJ80 box, Lifted YJ springs and the addition of the Panhard bar just to make it more complicated. There is not a great deal of room to work with when you have to add a shock tower in the mix on the DS.



Steering Front View. I still need to do some welding and fitting yet.
The steering geometry is set at 5 degrees.




Panhard Bar was bent at one end to 5 degrees to shorten the PS mounting bracket. I have a 3/4 Heim in the DS and will be using a suspension bushing on the PS. This will help the bar from flopping with the bend in it.




Extended High Steer Arm was made from 8620 the same material the 6 shooter arm is made out of. These pieces will be tig welded together. The block started off at 30 pounds. After several hours of whittling I got it down to a more manageable 9 pounds.


Last edited by Tan Zuk; 02-23-2012 at 03:23 PM.
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Old 12-29-2011, 04:30 PM   #18
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I wanted to say "Thanks For The Participation".



To help eliminate one problem:

I started off by dropping the FJ80 box 1” to help decrees the drag link angle. The Frame was notched 1” and the holes filled in the frame before adding the frame plates. This was done to the inside, outside, top, bottom and the notch.

1" Frame Drop Mod




1/4 Outside Drop Plate




Outside plate mounted with DOM bushings and rosset welding holes.




Inside plate mounted


Last edited by Tan Zuk; 02-23-2012 at 03:24 PM.
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Old 12-29-2011, 06:42 PM   #19
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Solid job...
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Old 12-29-2011, 07:06 PM   #20
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I am Sold i have loved your build from day 1 and have gotten some tips from it hoping i don't have to bug with all the steering problems you ran into with my build going with 37's but hope to use stock yj's and SOA with a 2" body lift and just some minor triming on the front of the front fender and pushing the front axle forward. Are your axles in the stock location or did you push the front forward i am looking to go the route cora zuk http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,59327.30.html did with the same tire wheel combo
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Old 12-29-2011, 07:14 PM   #21
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Now that I have the FJ80 box mod done. The next issue was mounts for shocks, panhard and bump stops. This took me quite a while to come up with something to incorporate all of this into 2 mounts.

Note:

These mounts were made to sandwich over the TG Shock and Ball support Brackets on both sides.



Driver Side (Side View) Shock Mount and Bumpstop Pad




Passenger Side (Rear View) Shock Mount ,Panhard Bracket and Bumpstop Pad that still needs to be added to the top.





Passenger Side (Side View) Shock Mount ,Panhard Bracket and Bumpstop Pad





Passenger Side (Front View) Shock Mount ,Panhard Bracket and Bumpstop Pad





Drivers Side Frame Panhard Bracket and Lower Bumpstop Mount




NOTE:

Thought I would add that I switched over to the 6 shooters after the pics were taken.

Last edited by Tan Zuk; 02-23-2012 at 03:26 PM.
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Old 12-29-2011, 07:38 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by midwestracer View Post
I am Sold i have loved your build from day 1 and have gotten some tips from it hoping i don't have to bug with all the steering problems you ran into with my build going with 37's but hope to use stock yj's and SOA with a 2" body lift and just some minor triming on the front of the front fender and pushing the front axle forward. Are your axles in the stock location or did you push the front forward i am looking to go the route cora zuk http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,59327.30.html did with the same tire wheel combo

The front has an 8 inch extension then I moved the front axle forward 5 inches with the weight on the springs. I have 4.5 Lift springs as well.

I will agree with what you mentioned on the lift and body trimming. I have only installed BL on Toy P/U and never really cared for them. Things don't fit where they are suppose to. Just a HEADS UP.

If I remember you were doing a budget build. I would try and get a set of springs that aren't in too bad of shape. This will keep the trimming to a minimum.

You should be fine with OTT steering to get you in the ball park.

Hope That Helps.
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Old 12-29-2011, 08:16 PM   #23
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yeah i have a set of 5&6 pack yj's that seem to be in good shape. How bout I just send you all my stuff and let you at it i love your work 2 for ya
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Old 12-30-2011, 11:20 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by midwestracer View Post
yeah i have a set of 5&6 pack yj's that seem to be in good shape. How bout I just send you all my stuff and let you at it i love your work 2 for ya
Your not the 1st person with that request. When I get the time I will check out the link and see if I can give you a little more help.

Thanks for the BEERS!!
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Old 12-30-2011, 11:27 AM   #25
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This is the side that got to be very congested.


Components:
Fj80 Box
Panhard Bar Bracket
Ford Shock Tower

Mods:
1" Frame Notch
Frame Plating
Bump Out for the Steering U-Joint and Box Plating






Drivers Side Bumpstop Mounting and Pad Locations. There will be additional bracing added to the Panhard Bar Mount for the stress of the Bumpstop Action.





FJ80 Box 1/2 Extension Block. I added this to lengthen the Drag Link. This will also cut down on the angle and decrease the rotational effects of the Panhard Bar.

Note:

The Drag Link length is 37 1/2 inches. Anything over 36 inches is ideal for a Panhard Bar applications.


Last edited by Tan Zuk; 02-23-2012 at 03:26 PM.
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