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Old 09-10-2010, 02:28 AM   #1
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I cant decide maybe you can help (axles)

its a 1.3 JL with a 5 speed currently im on Stock zuk axles and gears running 33's i bought the rig this way.. its a pain to drive on just the street not even tempting to wheel it yet with the lack of power...


I will be swaping to Yj springs


my question is i want this for trail rides and some mild wheeling driving on the sand.. i doubt ill crawl on rocks much maybe a little bit but nothing crazy.. and play around in the woods

i want 35's with 35's do i really Need/HAVE to go Toy axles.. from what i read everyone talks about breaking axles ect on zuk axles w/ anything over 33's..


Im trying to do this cheap.. have a bit more then 1k right now to blow on it.. more later but ya.. I can weld decent and mild fab skills but i have always been into car's and never built anything really for wheeling..

so basicly could i get away with zuk axles 6.5:1 tcase and 4.10 gears or is this bad and i should just go toy axles with the same gear setup?

i have done alot of searching and reading about this.. i just cant make up my mind if the toy axles are a must.. i know ill be in them atleast 1000.. 500 for Tcase gears found toy axles w disc front/drum rear w/4.10's 500 + steering parts
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Old 09-10-2010, 02:32 AM   #2
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I'd stay 33"s and samurai axles. put the money saved from an axle swap into welding/spool'n the rear and throw a lockright up front, YJ SPOA, full sky OTT, power steering, ROLL CAGE!!, armor, transfer case bucket (slutty snatch from ZOR) and some 6.5 t-case gears in it (I got 5.1s, wish I had 6.5s) and just everything else that I'm too lazy to think of since its about bedtime.

Toy axle swap sounds cheap but don't be amazed when you spend ALOT more than you think. Grade 8 bolts and nylon nuts, all high steer/etc adds up, quick, my bro spent $1500 or so, and I know Marc017 spent around that too.

My bro runs 6.5s/4.10s and "spec'd" 34.5" (35x12.50" trepadors) and its about perfect.

I can do 60-65 with uphill/wind and 70mph in a calm/flat area with 5.1s and 33" trxus m/ts (big n heavy, and also a very big 33"!)

My rig on 33"s/YJ spoa/Zuk axles
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Old 09-10-2010, 02:49 AM   #3
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don't waiste the money on 35's , no need for them save money right now and stay 33's, stock zuk axles maybe a set of chromies. set of 5:12 gears in the rears, a 6:5 to 1 t case gear and a nice spoa lift. over the top steering and good shocks. you can be in that for far less than going to yotas and 35's.
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Old 09-10-2010, 03:10 AM   #4
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I am allready SPOA with i think its a Half Xover steering (stock Drag link w/ new steering arm on pass spindle) the current 33's rub a little and the suspention feels really stiff so hoping for another good 2+ from the YJ springs


i think the front axle needs rebuilt (lots of slop but the stering has no play so i think its wheelbearings ect)


Hmm so T case gears, (im not sure if my stock axles are 4.10's or not (1990 1.3lt JL soft top) freshin up the axles, and armor (probably new rims as my current ones allow my tires to rub on my springs. then a Sidekick/toyota PS setup...

Hmm.. so best place for the 6.5:1 rocky-road is cheap but i hear they are slow sky is spendy.. trail-tough says theres is a 6.4:1 (it matter?)
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Old 09-10-2010, 03:34 AM   #5
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Stock zuk axle gears are 3.73. Go 5.13 out of a Trackick or 4.62 from same. Tcase gears Trail Gear 6.5 life time warrenty no questions asked. Get them from MY (ZOR) or Sean (LowRange) Both great venders.
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Old 09-10-2010, 03:40 AM   #6
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the trackick gears go right in? or with modification?
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Old 09-10-2010, 03:47 AM   #7
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found a few sidekick gear swap posts
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Old 09-10-2010, 04:00 AM   #8
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am i reading it right that to use the sidekick rears you need they hybrid setup but the front sidekick axle diff is the same? so the gears and pin would just swap over? its late.. and well i think thats what im reading
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Old 09-10-2010, 07:09 AM   #9
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Honestly If your staying 33's I wouldnt even worry about diff gears yet. any T-case gears you buy also gears the high range and not just the low range. If i remember right the 6.5 is a 1.7 in high range vs the stock 1.3? I ran 32's and 6.5 gears and it ran fine. the gearing wasnt the problem after that, it was just plain engine power. I dont know what year you have but if its carbed i would look into a myside or somthing to give the little 1.3 a little more umph. You can find a really cheap full spool at dura solid. Theres a lot you can do with $1k. Dont go cheap on the T-case though. make sure you buy a full rebuild kit. might as well freashen up everything when your in there. go ahead and buy an updated output shaft too. If you cant afford it, its not too big of deal, you can change it out with the case still in the rig. Also, another important buy would be a Snatch T-case cradle. I cant tell you how many T-case mounts I went through which in turn broke the trans mount. To save money if you have the skills and ability to do it cheap, go ahead and make the YJ spring plates. heck you can even make M/L with a couple different stock shackles you find at the junkyard. But, if this thing sees mostly road go ahead and spend the money on a real M/L kit which has been proven. Oh, and Sean at Low Range or MY at ZOR just about only places to go
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Old 09-10-2010, 07:46 AM   #10
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Have you checked over the engine to see if it is good shape it could be a little tired. and be part of the problem. I am running 33's stock axles and 4.1 transfercase gears. Also a My-Side 2 It is not a hard core rock crawler works out fine in the snow wheeling.
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Old 09-10-2010, 12:45 PM   #11
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the motor will get some work im sure its tired.. i also need to convert it back to EFI as a previouse owner put a webber on it.. everythings there just need the TB..

I am not diving too far into the 1.3 though my over all goal for the motor is a VW transplant as im a VW tech the swap would be easy and cake to keep it running great..

not to mention i have a complete 134hp 1.8 16v motor from a GTI (vw) for it or a 2.0 8v Aba 115hp.. so i will later on be getting the plate from acme for one of those swaps

ok well i think i have decided to freshen up the Tcase, use 6.5:1 gears and ether buy or build(probably buy it will be less work ) the Tcase cradel... Gf loved the name and said it has to be pink
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Old 09-10-2010, 01:48 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1mad zuk View Post
Stock zuk axle gears are 3.73. Go 5.13 out of a Trackick or 4.62 from same. Tcase gears Trail Gear 6.5 life time warrenty no questions asked. Get them from MY (ZOR) or Sean (LowRange) Both great venders.

i run the 6.5 and 4:62s with 33s.

maybe a little low on the hiway,but it will run 70mph.and crawls great offroad.
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Old 09-10-2010, 01:53 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kombi View Post
the motor will get some work im sure its tired.. i also need to convert it back to EFI as a previouse owner put a webber on it.. everythings there just need the TB..

I am not diving too far into the 1.3 though my over all goal for the motor is a VW transplant as im a VW tech the swap would be easy and cake to keep it running great..

not to mention i have a complete 134hp 1.8 16v motor from a GTI (vw) for it or a 2.0 8v Aba 115hp.. so i will later on be getting the plate from acme for one of those swaps

ok well i think i have decided to freshen up the Tcase, use 6.5:1 gears and ether buy or build(probably buy it will be less work ) the Tcase cradel... Gf loved the name and said it has to be pink


PINK is the way to go.
this marco17 showing his off.it does catch the eye

Last edited by madzukr; 09-10-2010 at 01:59 PM.
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Old 09-10-2010, 07:57 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by LiftedZuki View Post
Toy axle swap sounds cheap but don't be amazed when you spend ALOT more than you think. Grade 8 bolts and nylon nuts, all high steer/etc adds up, quick, my bro spent $1500 or so, and I know Marc017 spent around that too.
This depends on how much you build vs. how much you buy, and how much you buy new vs. used. Grade 8 is overkill for spring bolts. Hobo arm (low steer cross over) it and you are only out the cost for a steering box, drag link and another stock steering arm you probably could get for free.
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Old 09-11-2010, 02:41 AM   #15
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I honestly wont run anything less than grade 8 on almost anything under the rig.

Toyota axles front and rear, that need to be in working shape
Locker
Spool/Welded
6 lug rims
etc

Easily 350 into a pair of good axles, 200-250 into a locker, 0-100 in locking the rear, new rims, 50-100, etc. It adds up.
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Old 09-11-2010, 05:18 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LiftedZuki View Post
I honestly wont run anything less than grade 8 on almost anything under the rig.

Toyota axles front and rear, that need to be in working shape
Locker
Spool/Welded
6 lug rims
etc

Easily 350 into a pair of good axles, 200-250 into a locker, 0-100 in locking the rear, new rims, 50-100, etc. It adds up.
Grade 8 is overkill, I've never run anything but grade 5 for spring bolts, I'm not dead yet and my Yota got beat hard. You'll bend springs or break drivetrain before you break one. On links where they have less cushion from bushings, maybe, but in double shear, with bushings, grade 5 is more than enough. Locker is nothing but a bit of wire or welding rod to do on a Toy axle, wheels you can easily cover selling your 5 luggers. I honestly wouldn't waste money on a locker for a toyota again, having done it. My truck was too light to ratchet my detroit anyway. The rear of my zuk is welded, and I'm probably going to weld the front the next time that third is out of the axle.
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Old 09-11-2010, 12:45 PM   #17
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so tightend up the steering box (top nut with a screw) wow that made a huge differance. it had about 9 inches of free movement left and right... it has 0 now..

though knuckles and spring bushings are dead but that will be soon
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Old 09-12-2010, 01:30 AM   #18
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so today i found a set of toy axles.. they are in good shape dont need rebuilt and locked rear.. $300 so changed my mind again.. heading down to pick them up in the morning.. as long as they are as discribed its a good deal..

getting the Yj springs

is it a bad idea to use normal shackles and just move the front perches out about were the Missing link would put them? i know you get more drop with the missing link...

oh and i just found two drive line spacers/adapters in the box of stuff i got with the sami there like 1.5 inches each.. interesting i have no vibration with my current SPOA and no spacers...


stock YJ springs are about 2-2.5" lift correct?
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Old 09-12-2010, 01:50 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madzukr View Post
PINK is the way to go.
this marco17 showing his off.it does catch the eye
so is it not bad that you only have bolts in the top and bottom of this shackle? mine are the same way i was thinking of welding or bolding the center of them ...
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Old 09-12-2010, 01:54 AM   #20
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Correct on the lift and several people here on the forum have simply moved the shackle hanger further out expressly so they didn't have to run a m/l setup.

Edit: Short shackles don't really need to be secured in the center but my shackles are. If your shackles are much longer than stock, they need a center reinforcement or your rig will wander like mad.
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Old 09-12-2010, 02:37 AM   #21
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If i was to do it again and for what you want why do you need a 35" tire? These zuks do amazing on 31's. A zuk with 1 locker and 31's outwheeled my dad's jeep on 35's and ARB's front and rear. With 33's the axles will last for a while if they are not abused, if you abuse them like rolling, hard wheeling, bumping it up things etc they will slowly weaken and break.... Dont ask how i know this. I'd run 31's and armor it up so for the little rock you do it hits skid plates. AND dont forget a roll cage, you'll never know when you need one.... dont ask me how i know this either.
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Old 09-12-2010, 02:38 AM   #22
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^^^^ This is a rare occurrence and only did it to show off the snatch
Although with yota's it seems a lot more stable.
It didnt ever wander too bad down the road, since then i have yota's and shortened the shackles.
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Old 09-12-2010, 03:33 AM   #23
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If i was to do it again and for what you want why do you need a 35" tire? These zuks do amazing on 31's. A zuk with 1 locker and 31's outwheeled my dad's jeep on 35's and ARB's front and rear. With 33's the axles will last for a while if they are not abused, if you abuse them like rolling, hard wheeling, bumping it up things etc they will slowly weaken and break.... Dont ask how i know this. I'd run 31's and armor it up so for the little rock you do it hits skid plates. AND dont forget a roll cage, you'll never know when you need one.... dont ask me how i know this either.

well i feel the 33's still look small on it.. the ppl i will be wheeling with all have larger rigs so i figure the 35's will help me not get stuck in there 44's ruts.. so clearance i guess... the 35's are not a huge issue.. my 33's are tore up though.. two are like 20% two are probaly 70% left so ill need tires soon figured id roll the 33's till bald on the street and get something else for wheeling..
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