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Old 07-20-2016, 03:57 PM   #76
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You have all kinds of ideas. I like that.
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"The point of spring under is better control. It has improved my handling and control a huge amount. My last lift was a 6" spoa with mudder tires, that was a pain in the butt to control, wandered all over the road, bump steer like you cant believe, rattled, shook, bounced, jiggled, everything but julienne fries." -- rkteckt


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Old 07-20-2016, 03:59 PM   #77
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I am going to borrow the idea of using the rivetnuts to mount my door panels I have been needing to make for years...
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"The point of spring under is better control. It has improved my handling and control a huge amount. My last lift was a 6" spoa with mudder tires, that was a pain in the butt to control, wandered all over the road, bump steer like you cant believe, rattled, shook, bounced, jiggled, everything but julienne fries." -- rkteckt


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Old 07-21-2016, 01:09 AM   #78
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I stole the idea from Low Range Off Road.
In total I maybe saved about $30 bucks by making the door panels myself.
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Old 07-21-2016, 08:38 PM   #79
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For someone who has the ability to make something like that it really saves ($30)...Good job...Looking forward to the next things!
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"The point of spring under is better control. It has improved my handling and control a huge amount. My last lift was a 6" spoa with mudder tires, that was a pain in the butt to control, wandered all over the road, bump steer like you cant believe, rattled, shook, bounced, jiggled, everything but julienne fries." -- rkteckt


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Old 07-27-2016, 01:27 AM   #80
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I've got the tire carrier finished! More or less.

I got a diagonal support welded. I had a slight issue with warpage while welding. I tacked another diagonal to the opposite side of the main tire support and strapped it down while it cooled.



Once that was done I welded a bolt to the swing and made a bracket to secure the top of the hi-lift.



Now that would complete any standard tire carrier well enough but I wanted to mount a jerry can or a water can so I made an additional support for one. I'll likely add another in the future but time was running our for me to go camping this past weekend. I was still doing some welding Saturday morning before heading out that afternoon.



I ran into some trouble. I had asked my nephew to grind away all the surface rust on all the metal and he accidentally stripped the threads on one of the bumpers mounting bolts and nut plate. The nut plate was salvageable I just need a tap. So I ran to Fastenal Friday morning to grab some new bolts and a 12M-1.75 Tap. I got home and fixed the nut plate and got everything mostly painted.



Everything was looking good except I needed a spot for my license plate. I used some scrap aluminum I had from making my mirror relocation brackets and the stock Samurai license plate bracket.



I got the prep tables mounted and everything packed up and was on my way to camp! We headed to mount Herman again for a 3 night trip.

The prep tables worked out great! I used some hinge material from home depot to mount the HDPE to the tailgate and the tire carrier.





My Coleman camp stove fit perfectly on the tailgate which is quite lucky for me since I didn't measure anything! I drilled some holes into the HDPE for some paracord hangers.



The water can mount I made worked great with our water can. I turned the can on it's side and it made for a great way to get water out of the can and into our water bottles and pots and pans for cooking and cleanup.



The whole setup worked out quite well. I need to refine our camp kitchen and kit a bit.




I made a snafu when I was showing off my tire carrier to my friend and I stood on it and I bent my spindle! I was able to bend it mostly back into place but I am disappointed with it's strength. I will be upgrading...

Despite that I did get some time to do a little bit of wheeling and playing around.




My daughter decided to climb in and pretend that she was the one driving after I got out to take some pictures.



Some things I'd like to improve
  • Tailgate needs way to lock into the open position. I used a strap to secure it but that method seems clumsy. Same goes for the tire carrier.
  • The water can being able to mount on it's side was great for getting water out but we had to run around the tire carrier to get access to the spout. It would be nice if we could dispense water from inside the kitchen area.
  • Stronger spindle.
  • Want another spot for another can for longer trips.


I also discovered that my trailer light adapter didn't allow for my hazard lights to function properly. I think I might be making my own trailer light adapter soon.
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Old 07-27-2016, 06:26 AM   #81
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Really like your table idea on tailgate and carrier.

Thanks for the follow up on how things worked while camping. What upgrade are you thinking of for spindle?

Earl
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Old 07-27-2016, 10:39 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OFT View Post
Really like your table idea on tailgate and carrier.

Thanks for the follow up on how things worked while camping. What upgrade are you thinking of for spindle?

Earl



x2...What he said. Cool setup. Way to maximize the Utility of this little Multi-Purpose Vehicle....Can't wait to see your innovations.
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"The point of spring under is better control. It has improved my handling and control a huge amount. My last lift was a 6" spoa with mudder tires, that was a pain in the butt to control, wandered all over the road, bump steer like you cant believe, rattled, shook, bounced, jiggled, everything but julienne fries." -- rkteckt


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Old 07-27-2016, 10:48 AM   #83
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My friends tire carrier uses a lockable axle hub for the spindle and it is strong! Also has the ability to lock the tire carrier into place which would be nice.

I'll probably buy a bigger spindle than the one I have now. Same design just bigger!

Thanks for the comments and for following guys!
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Old 08-18-2016, 03:21 AM   #84
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Picked up this 93/94 EFI 16 Valve Automatic Suzuki Sidekick a couple weeks ago! 141K miles.





Had a sputtering/bucking issue around 1500-2000k RPM. My mechanic friend seems to think it's a fuel mixture problem. Seller thought it was an electrical issue with the transmission. Not sure yet.

We messed with it for an hour in the Napa parking lot immediately after I purchased it and after 5 minutes of continuous driving the problem disappeared and hasn't presented itself since. It's mostly sat since then.

I've removed the Suzuki Security system since the siren relay kept clicking. Someone had cut the wire to the siren long ago. I'm assuming that it kept going off.

I've yet to really dive into troubleshooting the issue but have come up with this list of items to hit.

Fuel Pressure Regulator
Fuel Pressure - Measured 35psi at idle - 40 under throttle
Vacuum Leaks
Plugged Catalytic Converter
Secondary Ignition cables.
Spark Plug Wires
EGR Valve
PCV Valve - Replaced since it was a cheap part
Faulty ECM - I plan on removing it to check for faulty components (capacitors?)


I planned on modifying the harness myself so I was going through Warbirds Harness Modification Instructions and he mentions that modifying the wiring harness from a 4 speed automatic donor is "significantly more complicated and not included in these instructions."


I've got access to the FSM for my sidekick through alldatadiy, so I can access the wiring diagrams for the transmission control module. Been trying to figure out what modifications are going to be necessary but I'm at a loss.
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Old 08-18-2016, 01:38 PM   #85
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Half of my laziness with diagnosing the sidekick is that it hasn't acted up since I've gotten it. Haha!
I'ts been running fine.

I had discovered that someone had taken the valve cover off and never reinstalled it correctly. it was missing one bolt and only two of the remaining bolts were tightened.

Someone has clearly removed the RWAL module in the past since one of the plastic nuts was sitting on the drivers side floor.

The 60amp fuse was blown and the remaining tabs were bent in to complete the circuit. Whoever decided that bypassing a 60 AMP fuse was a good idea is brilliant!

Got off the phone with Petroworks and it looks like the oil pan and pickup modification service they offer is $125 which isn't bad. But I either have to pay $250 up front to get the pan shipped to me and then I get my $125 core refunded to me when I ship my pan and pick up back to them.
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Old 09-19-2016, 02:12 AM   #86
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I lost access to this site a while ago. Not sure what happened but I've done a lot of work to the Samurai since my last update.

I've got the 1.6L engine in! Still sorting out the wiring.

I've been going through your writeup HardLuk! Thanks for making such a detailed thread!I would have been lost without that 90 hose for the heatercore!
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Old 09-24-2016, 02:07 AM   #87
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Going to try and make a decent effort at posting an update here.


I started this project about a month ago. It's honestly probably the biggest project I've ever committed to tackling too!

I pulled the front clip from the Samurai as I knew it'd make things easier. I recommend that anyone attempting an engine swap in a Samurai do this as well. It's incredibly easy!


This made pulling the engine that much easier! Everything unbolts easy enough. I found it was easier to remove the heater core hose from the engine rather than the heater core. FYI.



I honestly used this 1/4" Socket Wrench and socket set for most of the removal. I also found myself using my 12mm and 14mm wrenches quite a lot as well.



My 3 Year old daughter helped me out as much as she could!



Pulling the engine out of the Samurai was the easy part!

Getting the engine out of the Sidekick was a major pain! I never got around to picking up my friends engine hoist and I decided to use two ladders, a 2x4, a ratchet strap and some steel tubing. I didn't get the engine out of the sidekick this night it got too dark and there were some extra brackets bolting the engine to the transmission as well as the flywheel inspection plate.



The next day I got the engine out and began work on swapping the oil pan and pick-up out. The 1.6L's oil pans sump was a little too wide and would have come in contact with my front axle had I left it. To solve this I discovered I could use a 1.3L oil pan and modify a pick up. I purchased a new oil pan and modified pick up from Trail Tough so I could keep my 1.3L in usable/sellable condition.







I got the new oil pan installed as well as the transmission adapter plate and the 1.3L's motor mounts with the passenger side relocation bracket.





Ran into a slight issue with the exhaust. I was hoping to get away with using the Samurai's exhaust with the catalytic converter and everything but it did not want o fit.



I got the Sidekicks downpipe and catalytic converter installed and coupled to my muffler. It's rubbing on the frame everywhere and I think I can fix it if I move some of the exhaust hangers but I'll look into it more when I get the thing running.

I've been tackling the wiring these last two weeks. I've been using Warbirds Samurai Engine Swap Wiring Harness instructions as a guide. Unfortunately my donor sidekick is the 94' 4-Door 4-Speed Automatic Transmission version which his instructions reference as "...significantly more complicated and is not included in these instructions."

According to some people who have had Myron (of Zuks Off Road) modify their harness he gets rid of the Transmission Control Module altogether. One person from a facebook group, who works closely with petroworks, said that I need to keep the TCM to make everything work.

According to fixkick I can disconnect the TCM which puts it in Manual Test Mode (limp home mode). Which is what I suspect ZOR is doing by deleting the TCM. Right now I plan to keep the TCM connectors on the harness in case I need to try some stuff out.
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/slush/...ml#manual_mode

Also, my Sidekick donor had Cruise Control. So I'm keeping the cruise control wiring as well in hopes of adding cruise control. The Cruise Control actuator is just a cable that pulls the gas pedal! Should be easy to swap into the Samurai!

Saturday I hope to get the fuel pump mounted and complete the wiring and hopefully add oil and get this thing running!!

Some Great sources I'm using! Huge thanks to HardLuk on ZukiKrawlers for his thread!


http://www.azrockcrawler.com/_images...316vmotor.html

http://www.billjohn.com/articles/eng...ve/16valve.htm

http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthre...ferrerid=38154
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Old 09-26-2016, 09:12 AM   #88
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So before I say how I was when I did this let me preface this by saying that I have MANY years of experience soldering. I've manufactured and repaired hundreds of PCBs. Professionally. But accidents do happen. When I was swapping out the capacitors on the ECM I may have peeled up a trace. Now I thought I repaired it but I fear I severed a trace on an internal layer on the PCB.

I thought I had gotten it repaired... I thought I had finished the wiring yesterday too. But I turned the key on and no CEL. I got the starter to crank but no start. No power to the fuel pump.

But I made a wiring mistake! Power to the fuel pump!! Still no CEL, still no start (but it sure sounded like it wanted to!)

A new ECM is on the way. Ordered it off ebay.....
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Old 10-08-2016, 01:16 AM   #89
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Among the other big tasks I had to tackle was the wiring and installing the VSS (Variable Speed Sensor) in the dash.

I began the electrical mods by removing the cluster, wiring harness and computers from the Sidekick.
I removed the VSS from the sidekick cluster and installed it into the Samurai cluster. Interestingly enough, the Samurai cluster had a spot with screw holes for it!
I soldered a yellow wire to a tab on the right and the remaining metal tab with the screw threads was the ground.



The wiring harness seemed like a daunting task though I don't think it's the $300 job all the Samurai vendors want to charge. Though I hear Zuks Off Road only charges $150 which seems far more reasonable.

I removed all the electrical tape from the harness and used zip ties to secure the wires in key locations to keep the wire branches and configuration mostly the same.



I removed all the stuff that I absolutely knew I would not be needing. Things like the headlights and blinkers, the brake fluid level sensor and a few other miscellaneous things. I identified and labeled everything I could. I'm beginning to think that the issue the woman I got this Sidekick was having was due to the lack of a Torque Converter Clutch Relay. I never located it.

I was extremely concerned about the transmission control module being an issue. I had heard from someone on a suzuki samurai facebook group that I would need to keep the TCM for it to work correctly or so that it the ECM wouldn't throw up a code and the check engine light.



I had wanted to keep the cruise control module and the cruise control actuator as it would have been pretty nice to have. The Honda Civic I've been daily driving has spoiled me with Cruise Control and Air Conditioning. In the end I removed most of the wiring and left the plugs for the TCM and Cruise Control Module thought I will probably remove them and the associated wiring sometime soon.

I'm pretty sure that my exhaust was not the original and that the exhaust I had on the samurai was custom. There was some weird stuff going on with it. I had heard that when some shops do the engine swap that they use the original muffler with the sidekicks catalytic converter. Mine kind of fit.... The downpipe going to the catalytic converter was really close to the frame. I couldn't use one of the spring bolt's on the frame side of the flange from the header to the downpipe and a tab on the downpipes heat shield was also rubbing the frame. My muffler sits maybe an inch or two too far towards the rear to really reach the flange on the end of the catalytic converter but I made it work temporarily. I think I can have an exhaust shop redo the flange from the header and the hangers for the rest of the exhaust system.



So I guess that the air intake pipe on the top of the engine as well as the throttle cable bracket will hit the samurai hood when you close it. You can solve this with a body lift or a hood scoop I hear. I chose to do the mods Brent from trail tough gave me over the phone.

For the throttle cable bracket I had to cut off the top of it and grind in the notch that's just below where the original throttle cable was secured.



(I'll try to get some better pics soon)

The air intake pipe bracketry needs to be modified as well. If you measure from the center of the original holes 1-1/4 up and drill two new holes (5/16" drill bit worked great) then cut off the bottom of the bracket as well as the bracket that goes over the valve cover.




My hood clears pretty well. I think its barely touching that boxy thing that's sitting under my throttle cable.

Getting back to the wiring harness I opted to keep my ECM on the drivers side, the harness modification instructions I was following from Warbird intended for me to deconstruct the wiring harness wire by wire and would have had me end up with my ECM on the passenger side where the original 1.3L ECM was but I really didn't want to take the harness apart that much. I drilled two extra holes in
the firewall for the Engine harness to enter the cab and for the Igniter, MAF, IAC and grounds to exit the cab and commenced to deconstructing the original harness and integrating the new harness.



I don't do anything in order so I took a break from the wiring to get the air box to fit. I removed most of the original mounting tabs from the air box as well as shortened the flexible hose about a half inch.



Eventually I got fuel pump mounted with some heavy duty zip tie mounts and heavy duty zip ties. I removed a check valve on the return line and added new hoses.
I thought I got everything wired in and proceeded to try to start the thing after pressurizing the fuel tank with air to prime the pump. I ran into some issues with the wiring on the fuse block as well as what I thought was the ECM being dead before I got the thing to start for some reason the following morning. The first thing I noticed was that the temperature gauge shot all the way up. After asking around I learned that I needed the temperature sensor from the 1.3L for the gauge to function correctly.



After I got that installed I started it up again and was letting it run for awhile. I noticed that the needle still shot all the way up before I noticed smoke coming from the cluster. I shut off the engine and disconnected the battery and removed the dash.



The trace led to the plug which in turn led to the black/white wire which I never properly spliced to the new harness. My best guess is that the current from the temperature gauge or the other gauges needed somewhere to go and the black/white wire trace wasn't up to handling the load. I repaired the trace with some wire and soldered between the spots that had completely burned up.

After I got that repaired I took it out for a test drive! I managed to get the Samurai up to 80mph! I'm sure it could have gone a little faster but I honestly don't like speeding too much.

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Old 10-08-2016, 03:46 AM   #90
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Nice job on the swap, if you have time post a video I would love to see it. That wiring sure does look like a headache though...
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Old 10-09-2016, 01:58 AM   #91
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I did happen to take a video shortly after getting it started for the very first time.

Is there something else you were hoping for video of?

https://youtu.be/sK-Qu-ff_YE
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Old 10-09-2016, 11:25 AM   #92
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No, that's great. I've always wanted to drive a Sammy with the 16v. My dad has the 8v in his and it's a noticeable increase but from everything I have heard the 16v is way better
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Old 10-10-2016, 12:31 AM   #93
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It's been really cool. Though I just discovered this oil leak at the oil pump so I'm really not sure where to go from here.
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Old 10-10-2016, 07:26 PM   #94
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First modification I did was put in 1.6 16V. It was so fun to drive almost did not do any other modifications. Stop light grand prix was a blast, and being able to keep up to speed limit--up hill (when I lived in north central CO).
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Old 10-12-2016, 01:26 AM   #95
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It has been fun.
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Old 11-08-2016, 03:00 AM   #96
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I'm back to daily driving my Samurai! Been working out some kinks here and there.

I made a bracket for the igniter.


In addition that I cleaned up the wiring under the hood pretty well. I wrapped everything with electrical tape and split loom tubing. I also took the opportunity to remove all of the automatic transmission wiring from the engine harness.


With all that done I noticed I fresh oil on the exterior of the engine.


The oil was the oil pump so I figured the gasket on it was going bad. I was advised to do the water pump and timing belt at the same time.
I put in an order from Petroworks for all the stuff I'd need, including a new timing cover.


In order to get the oil pump off I needed to remove the lower timing pulley/cog and the oil pan. There's a nut in the center that holds it on but in order to get it off I need to hold the cog in place. I ly tried to pry against one of the pulley screws with a screwdriver while trying to break the bolt free and ended up cracking the cog.


I got on the ColoradoZuks Facebook group and asked for one and someone happened to have one about 30 minutes from my house on an engine block they were willing to give me for free!
Huge thanks to fixkick.com for the measurements for making the tool needed to remove this bolt properly. You can see it in the bottom portion of the picture.


With the new cog I installed oil pump and water pump.


And after all that I still have an oil leak.


I believe it may be from the front of the head gasket but the oil leak is slow and I'm not noticing and g or oil in the coolant.

In other news I purchased an OBD1 to USB cable and I plan on using the rhinoman software to read data from the ECM.
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Old 11-08-2016, 11:26 AM   #97
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I am interested in the OBD1 to USB , and the rhinoman software to read data from the ECM. Do you know if it will this work on a stock '91 Samurai 1.3 with EFI?

Wayne
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Old 11-08-2016, 12:20 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reddog1 View Post
I am interested in the OBD1 to USB , and the rhinoman software to read data from the ECM. Do you know if it will this work on a stock '91 Samurai 1.3 with EFI?

Wayne
*
Wayne I can answer that for you: Rhinoman has no software that will work with the US version of the EFI Samurais, 90-95. I already asked him that question a few months ago and got that response. The samurai's ECU is missing a component/chip that is necessary to "talk" to the software. I was disappointed to hear that
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Old 11-08-2016, 12:35 PM   #99
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Thanks steve1814. I thought that would be the answer.

Wayne
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Old 11-09-2016, 02:23 AM   #100
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http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-b...ad.php?tid=470

Must not be in the US. I didn't have any luck getting the software to work but I'm not giving up yet.
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