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Old 04-14-2011, 03:02 PM   #1
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Removing 3rd member right up

I know a lot of you already know how to do this, but this right up is for the people who are new to zuks and need to know how to check, inspect, or replace the rear axles or third member.

Removal

1) Secure the vehicle without the ebrake on.


2) Drain gear oil



3) Jack up zuki


4)Take your tires off, in order for an easier work environment.

5) Disconnect the e-brake cabe from rear of drum.

6) Disconnect the hard brake line from the rear of the drum. It will require using a 12mm wrench.


7) Disconnect Drive shaft from the 3rd member.


8)Take out the 4 nuts that are behind the brake drum. It requires a 12mm


9) Carefully take a rubber mallet and hit behind the rear brake drum in order to loosen the axle from the housing. Once loosened, remove axle shaft from the housing.

This goes for the other side as well.

10)Then once both axle shafts are removed from the housing, place a jack stand underneath the 3rd member and remove all 8 12mm bolts from the housing, Though making sure the 3rd member is carefully fastened into place.


11)Then remove the 3rd member. Here you would want to check the 3rd member for any damage to the ring teeth and further your process from this point on to what you have planned to do (example; putting new gears in, locker in, or just checking to make sure everything is working properly). Or in my case, I was putting a new 3rd in with a locker!




Installation


12)You want to get some high temp silicone gasket sealer and place it around the 3rd member housing before re-installing the new 3rd in order for a tight seal.


12) Once on, re-install the 3rd member and tighten down all 8 bolts around the 3rd, using a 12mm.


13) Then just reversre the steps above in order to finish the replacement of the axle shafts and brake lines.

14) Once all is done, fill that baby back up with some new gear oil, put the tires back on and go take it for a test drive to see if all your hard has paid off.



In all, with me doing it by myself, it took me a little over an hour, while being very careful not to damage anything and making sure everything I touched was placed back into its right spot and tightened down to spec.

Good luck. If you have any questions, feel free to PM anytime!
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Old 04-14-2011, 04:16 PM   #2
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nice write up
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Old 04-14-2011, 04:27 PM   #3
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Sweet write up. We need more write-ups for the simple things.
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Old 04-14-2011, 05:49 PM   #4
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brake lines are 10mm. and you forgot "chok" the front tires so as not to roll away.

very good for the newbs!
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Old 04-14-2011, 05:57 PM   #5
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Great, I'll leave ya some rep! I also like to disconnect the battery and chock the tires as zuk rider said. Also it might be helpful to put in what to torque everything to and whether to use loc-tite or not.
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Old 04-14-2011, 06:09 PM   #6
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looks good! I did this when installing tracker diffs in my zuk about a week ago. My bleeders are very stripped... I was wondering if anyone has bought and used the spidertrax speed bleeders. They SEEM worth the 25$. But are more expensive than just the basic replacement one. so i figured id ask.....
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Old 04-14-2011, 06:39 PM   #7
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Ya I forgot to add in the chock the tires, disconnect battery, and the lock-tite the bolts. But that stuff I would have figured people would already know. I was just going for the big key main points. But next write up i do I add in EVERYTHING!! thanks you everybody tho
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Old 04-15-2011, 10:37 AM   #8
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nice write up. I'd add the step about bleeding the brakes though..
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Old 04-15-2011, 11:18 AM   #9
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PURPLE





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Old 04-15-2011, 11:25 AM   #10
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The process is somewhat different with a Tracker rear diff, however, because it is secured with nuts onto studs. The only way I've found to remove it is to use a hammer and a razor blade to cut the sealant and then pry it off with a couple screwdrivers...
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Old 04-15-2011, 12:36 PM   #11
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PURPLE
Chris, your secret love for purple is coming out

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Old 04-15-2011, 12:40 PM   #12
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Chris, your secret love for purple is coming out


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Old 04-15-2011, 02:57 PM   #13
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Chris, your secret love for purple is coming out

At least its not the whole rainbow!
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Old 04-17-2011, 02:13 PM   #14
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you can get the speedbleeders at most auto parts stores they usually run from $5-7 each. Just have to get the right length and thread. Nice writeup.
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Old 04-17-2011, 06:57 PM   #15
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If you can you should change the tittle from RIGHT UP to WRITE UP for search purposes.
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Old 04-17-2011, 07:17 PM   #16
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3rd member thread

Another step I would add - especially if you run in water alot. Grease the outside of the bearings before installing in the axle and a little of that
gasket maker on the rear of the backing plate.
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