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Old 06-03-2012, 09:41 AM   #26
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Nice looking rig there. Really like the proportion of that bumper to the front end. I need to do the same and have been debating what size to use. I think that debate is over. We should all do a NoCo Zuk get together this summer. There are quite a few of us.
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Old 06-03-2012, 05:45 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Driveway Dreams View Post
Nice looking rig there. Really like the proportion of that bumper to the front end. I need to do the same and have been debating what size to use. I think that debate is over. We should all do a NoCo Zuk get together this summer. There are quite a few of us.
I am pretty happy with the proportions as well, I spent alot of time measuring and looking at different bumpers that were available. I drew the bumper up about 3 years ago. Nick (Rocfrog) offered to let me built it at his place but we never got around to it. A NoCo Zuk run would be a lot of fun. Sundays are the best days for me.
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Old 10-12-2012, 01:14 AM   #28
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Well I finally started working on the zuk again. The back left wheel bearing was getting pretty rough and the rear brakes are . So I figured I would swap to rear discs. I went with the Trail Tough economy kit.



Passenger side being torn down. It came apart nicely.


Ground down the retainer and the inner race to remove them from the axle shaft.


Proportioning valve installed.


The driver side did not cooperate as much. But I got it apart and had to stop there for now. Elk season starts this weekend so Ill finish this up late next week and then hopefully turn my attention to the rust repairs and rear bumper.
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Old 10-20-2012, 08:37 PM   #29
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Finally got around to working on this again. I had to wait for a friend of a friend to let me use his press for the new bearings. I called around and the best price I could find for a shop to press the bearings on was 35 each! And I already took the old bearing off myself. Here some photos of the progress.

Driver side hard line rerouted.


Passenger hard line peaking around the perch.


New bearings pressed on.


All bolted up.


I made it to the same point on the passenger side but figured out I was missing a banjo bolt. Loaded calipers are not quite that loaded. To add to insult in my search to find a banjo bolt in my pile of samurai junk I found the old brake lines that I have been saving (for 5 yrs) to use for this disc swap so that I would not have to buy new ones. Oh well somebody on here may want them. Hopefully I can round up a banjo bolt up at the junkyard tomorrow and finish this up. I also need to round up a U bolt to replace the one that I snapped.
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Old 11-07-2012, 01:59 AM   #30
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Well the samurai is all back together, the rear discs are sooo much better than the stock drums. Unfortunately I have acquired a new noise in the rear end. It is clunking/knocking noise coming from the rear but it can only be heard when I have my foot on the gas, as soon as I lift completely off the gas it goes away. So I will check that out on my day off, hopefully its a u-joint and not something in the diff. Please chime in if you have had an issue like this.
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Old 01-30-2013, 04:08 AM   #31
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I finally got around to working on this again. I took the rear end apart to see if I could locate my noise. I jacked up the rear end and gave the passenger wheel a spin, the driver side did not join in on the spinning so something is up with the locker. I figured new pins and springs would take care of the issue. I pulled the third to take a look and found this


6 teeth damaged in total.


So while I am waiting for the new R&P gear set to come in I turned my attention to the rust. I started off building a 220 extension cord, it was waaay cheaper to build than buy.


I picked up a 122 cu ft cylinder on craigslists. I was a bit worried I would have trouble exchanging it, but Airgas didn't give me any trouble swapping it for C25.


Then I picked up some material to build a cart for the and cylinder. The roof rack works great for skis, snowboards, and 1x2 14 ga rectangular tubing. Material adds up quick, 22 ft for the cart.


I managed to get all the tubing cut up, 22 feet looks small in pieces. I also welded the base together, but thats about it. Hopefully I will finish this up tomorrow, I still need to pick up some wheels and castors from HF after work tomorrow.

Once I have the welding cart done I will start doing battle on the samurai sheet metal I have heard such good things about.
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Old 01-31-2013, 01:25 AM   #32
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I went out to the garage after work and finished welding the cart together. I still need to pick up wheels and castors and make a handle. It was a bit tricky keeping everything square but I think it turned out alright.


And here's a picture of how the sammi sits today.


And the garage. We are still unpacking but there is enough room for the sammi and space to work.
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Old 02-08-2013, 10:49 PM   #33
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I finally picked up the castors and cut the shelves for the cart. The will be much easier to use now, I should have done this a lot sooner.


Welded up a handle and slapped some paint on it
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Old 02-08-2013, 11:12 PM   #34
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nice EF! any mods?
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Old 02-09-2013, 04:47 AM   #35
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nice EF! any mods?
Thanks! It is an Si with the original d16a6 with about 329,000 Km on the clock (It was imported from Canada so its metric). It has a few tasteful mods: neuspeed front strut brace, stainless brake lines, B&M short shifter, and is currently lowered on H&R springs with tokico blues. I am not a fan of the ride quality so I will be swapping back to stock springs. I am the 2nd owner, the guy I bought it from was pretty anal and it came with a 2in thick folder of maintenance records. It is a nice non molested, solid DD that gets good milage and costs nothing to insure. I have always liked the EF body style and this thing is way more reliable than the subaru I had. The car plus the cost of ownership for a year has been less than the money I dumped into fixing my WRX in one year and I even swapped the short block myself to save money.

I got back out to the garage tonight and finished up the s cart. As long as work is not too crazy next week I will pick up some sheet metal and start fixing rust. For anybody who has welded new sheet metal in what gauge did you use?
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Old 02-09-2013, 04:55 AM   #36
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Looks good
Id go 18 gauge for new stuff, maybe 20 or 22 for repair.
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Old 02-12-2013, 02:53 AM   #37
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I got after it again today. Picked up a few bolts and some chain to hold the tank in place on the cart. Just need to add some hooks for the leads and I am going to call it good.


And then I turned my attention to the rusty driver side rear wheel well.


I am not one for cutting up samurais but the wheel wells have seen better days and it will be much easier to patch up when I only have to bend the sheet metal one direction.


And that is where I finished for the night.








I like how its turning out so far. I need to work on the curve of the wheel well towards the front of the zuk but pics make the curve look more abrupt than it is. You can see some more rust in last pick I want to weld the whee wells before I cut that bit out.
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Old 02-12-2013, 01:10 PM   #38
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Progress is always good!!

Nick
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:23 PM   #39
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Got some more work done on the wheel wells. New sheet metal is in.






And that samurai sheet metal is just as bad as everyone says. But after burning plenty of holes I got the technique and parameters dialed in. I have never done any body work before but I am happy with the results so far. Hopefully I can finish the rest of the welding tonight and get it all cleaned up and prepped for paint.
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Old 10-29-2015, 01:06 AM   #40
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Well I still have the zuk and she's been patiently waiting 2 yrs and 8 months for some attention. I bought my first house a few months after the last post so I spent most of my time working on it since then. Fun stuff tearing things apart and putting it back together. Scraped all the popcorn ceiling crap off, ripped out all the carpet, replaced a bunch of subfloor, knocked out a wall, all new windows, new sliding door, and rewired a good portion of the house.












Then bought a boat at the beginning of summer 2015, so I spent all my free time on it. Got it on the water 20 days. Could have done more if June had not been so wet.



Finally got the zuk in the garage to get the differential all fixed up with the used gears I picked up 2 years ago. I don't have all the tools to setup gears so I decided that I would go ahead and pay to have them installed. Left to go hunt for the weekend and picked up the 3rd from the mechanic and the bearing caps were on the wrong side. So I take it back to have them go through it and fix and it and get a call to pick it up the follow day. Everything looks good this time but the mechanic says to let him know if I want help re gearing the front. I said I am good I just blew up the rear. He says he put in a different ratio then what he took out. I count the teeth and sure enough the used 5.38's were stock 3.73s. I thought I double check when I got them but I guess I imagined that. Thats what I get for buying shit used on the internet and letting it sit for 2 years. So i am out 300 bucks for the install of the wrong ratio gears. So when I get my new gears I am just going to buy the tools and do it myself, or by chance anyone around Ft Collins have any experience installing R&P gears?
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Old 10-03-2017, 01:11 AM   #41
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Been working on the samurai again, and updated all the photo links since photobucket is charging to host now. Looks like all the work from this summer didn't made the server migration.

Got the Samurai in the garage.


Finished patching the driver side floor behind the wheel well.


Patched some more rust on the driver rear.


Started working on the driver side rocker.


Rusty stuff gone.


Driver front wheel well about to get a trim.




Making room in the wheel wells.


First patch


First patch in the wheel well, as well as the first section of the mini boat side.




Cleaning things up
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Old 10-03-2017, 01:12 AM   #42
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Couple more patches in and rewelding some spots that I cleaned up a little too much.




All the patches in.



Rear half of the boat side.



Cleaned up



Took a break from the samurai and helped a friend replace his radiator in the sprinter van.



Working on more patching on the driver front wheel well.





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Old 10-03-2017, 09:57 PM   #43
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Kept working on the front wheel well. I wanted to keep the front clip removable, so I welded in a couple nuts to the tub.


Then I welded the last patch to the front clip, and used the previously welded nuts to bolt the last patch to the tub, it sucks things together nice and tight. And it can all be unbolted to remove the clip.


And that wraps up most of the metal work on the drivers side.
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Old 10-03-2017, 10:13 PM   #44
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So I spun the sammi around and started working on the passenger side.


Pretty rusty on the passenger side.




Cut the passenger wheel well out.


Cut the rocker and front wheel well


And cut some more of the tub.


Its all pretty much the same as the drivers side, I was able to re-use a most of the patch templates from the driver side which sped things up. I patched the floor where the fuel filler come through as well didn't really get any photos of that. Welded a few nuts on to keep the fuel filler line cover removable. And did the same on the front to keep the front clip removable.






And that is where I am as of today. I need to measure everything for the sliders, I am going to have some 1/4 plate bent to go over the rockers. Then I can move onto painting up all the new metal. The original fender flares are going to be going back on hopefully. Although I need to work out the mounting since all that is cut off. I am thinking some rivnuts. Then I think the rear bumper will be next. I have had my fill of welding sheet metal for a while.
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Old 10-11-2017, 01:10 AM   #45
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Had the sliders bent up, they look pretty sweet. 1/4" was a little overkill, 3/16 would have been just fine. But it should take a beating.





They fit really well, and they are really beefy.



Then I drilled a bunch of holes in them to get them mounted. There was only supposed to be 16 mounting points per side but I got carried away with the lay out and ended up with 22. I welded in the nuts to bolt the rocker to, all but 2 or 3 lined up great, the others need a little adjusting. I dig the way they look.

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87 sammi,33's, YJ's SPOA, 4.16 t-case with disk e-brake, 5.38 R&P, Lock rite in the rear, trussed and armored axles, 26 spline front shafts with birf rings, doug thorley header. The Build.

Last edited by peewee2; 10-23-2017 at 11:34 PM.
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Old 10-12-2017, 02:07 AM   #46
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Got back after it tonight. I chopped it down to the correct length, and made the cut for the door. Fixed the bolts that were not lining up and bolted it together. I am pretty damn excited with how this on turned out.

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87 sammi,33's, YJ's SPOA, 4.16 t-case with disk e-brake, 5.38 R&P, Lock rite in the rear, trussed and armored axles, 26 spline front shafts with birf rings, doug thorley header. The Build.

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Old 10-18-2017, 05:24 AM   #47
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Might be at my end, but I'm not seeing any pics...just this:

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'91 vert, SPOA otherwise bone stock.

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Old 10-18-2017, 10:20 AM   #48
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Mine too.... whole thread has no working pictures
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87 Zuk, P&P 1.3, .040 9.5 piston, 40mm CV Carb, w/Thorley Header, YJ SPOA Homemade Fr ML's/Rear Shackles, Diff Guards, DT 8000 Shocks, Tracker PS w/ Cooler, Calmini High Steer, 6.5:1 Tcase, Rock4xFab Twin Sticks, RRO Mega Mount, 2" BL, 32" STT's on 15x10 OMF Beadlocks, TT Belly Skid, Homemade Sliders, Homemade Front/Rear Bumpers, 6k Winch, Onboard Air Viair 450C, GM 100 Alternator, LED Rocklights, Thumb Throttle


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Old 10-24-2017, 12:11 AM   #49
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Working on updating all the photo links. We were out of town this past weekend so no more progress on the sammi.
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87 sammi,33's, YJ's SPOA, 4.16 t-case with disk e-brake, 5.38 R&P, Lock rite in the rear, trussed and armored axles, 26 spline front shafts with birf rings, doug thorley header. The Build.
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Old 10-24-2017, 01:31 AM   #50
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photos now show-everything looks great! you did a good job on fixing the rust and the sliders are super!
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