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Old 06-03-2009, 02:04 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rangerscott69 View Post
Ya'll want pics of the 410 backing plates installed?
I did the 410 backing plate mod on my sammy. SWEET!, it lets you remove the axle with out pulling the brakes lines, and having to re-bleed the brake system if you dont have to!!!
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Old 09-09-2009, 10:14 AM   #27
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working on my passenger rear bearing today just dropped off the axle and drum housing picking up in an hour..so if you have an aftermarket bearing theres no need for that gold contoured spacer then or do you still need to use it..I'm not talking bout the spacer that goes on after the bearing cause Igot my bearing from napa....looks about the same depth if idon't use the spacer but loooks like the bearing in there was aftermarket also....
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Old 10-19-2009, 10:16 PM   #28
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An update and a warning for you guys sourcing the bearings aftermarket. The bearings seem to be correct from places like Autozone, Advance and NAPA but be careful with the bearing retainers. Many of the aftermarket retainers are too large to fit into the seal. Test it in the installed axle seal before you press them on the axle shaft. For reference, the correct dimensions are 35mm ID x 48mm OD x 20mm thk. Many retainers are 50mm OD. It will NOT work.

I checked out the entire local NAPA warehouse recently. Only one was correct out of around ten.
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Old 10-19-2009, 11:47 PM   #29
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Trail Tough and Hawk Suzuki always have the right and OEM parts. I won't go to a parts store for bearings.
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Old 02-08-2010, 08:50 PM   #30
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This is a great write up and really helped me this past weekend in changing out the bearings on my zuk. Thanks
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Old 02-26-2010, 08:46 PM   #31
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Is the spacer required, or I can change my bearings without replacing the spacer? The bearing kit I bought came with the bearing and retainer, not the spacer.
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Old 03-04-2010, 07:48 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prowler View Post
Is the spacer required, or I can change my bearings without replacing the spacer? The bearing kit I bought came with the bearing and retainer, not the spacer.
reuse your old spacer... not the ideal thing to do, but if it didn't get marred durring removal, you'll get by. if memory serves the new spacer is only around 8 bucks.
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Old 03-04-2010, 11:51 AM   #33
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Ok. Got them installed. Apparently the older model samurais came with the spacer meanwhile the newer samurai came with the spacer built onto the bearing according to the local dealer here.
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Old 03-31-2010, 09:56 PM   #34
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Just an FYI, for those pulling the retainer. Another way other then grinding it so far through. We set the axle on a drill press and use a 5/16" drill bit( set the depth as to not hit the axle shaft. drill it the use a chissel with a good smack and it will fall off. It takes me less the 5 mins to pop both axle bearing retainers.
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Old 04-28-2010, 05:04 PM   #35
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Can the seal go in too much? that plastic thing should still spin or no? DANGIT. I think I messed up.
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Old 11-08-2010, 07:21 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ack View Post
I am replacing bearings on a rear axle using non-OEM parts which are slightly different so I thought I would add some graphics that show the difference between the two types and how non-OEM parts fit. First Holeshot's picture of the bearing stack:



Here you can see (from left to right) the spacer, the bearing and the retainer.

This is what the OEM parts look like graphically:



and what a typical aftermarket bearing may look like:



Note that the aftermarket bearing has the spacer built into the bearing and both the spacer part of the bearing and the OEM spacer itself are contoured to fit snugly against the rounded edge of the axle lip (that curved line near the outer edges of the spacer representing the actual shape of the axle shaft). It is important to install the OEM spacer with the contoured edge against the axle lip so that the bearing is the correct distance from the drum flange!
Thanks for the graphic Ack!!!! Explains a lot I didn't quite get before!

Including why my rear brake rotors fit funny (mine had no spacers!)

Joel
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Old 12-31-2010, 01:57 AM   #37
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Thank you so much for your detailed instructions on rear wheel bearing replacement, i just finished doing both sides on my 91 sammi and it turned out great.

Thank you.

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Old 12-31-2010, 02:32 AM   #38
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Old 02-11-2011, 04:19 PM   #39
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WOW... really good write up. I ended up doing this a couple of months ago... a shop wanted $150... cutting them off is the way to go.
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Old 04-28-2011, 06:56 PM   #40
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Good stuff man this is going to help me out a lot thanks!
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Old 04-28-2011, 07:35 PM   #41
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Hi, read the post on here about rear bearing fix. Just for some info, TRAILTOUGH makes rear bearing retainers that make it unneccesary to pull the backing plate. Really a great idea.
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Old 05-15-2011, 10:19 PM   #42
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I just wanted to thank both holeshot and ack for their helpful information. I just finished up with new rear wheel bearings, and had to reference this when I ran into the spacer. Just for clarification, if the bearing has a step, DON'T use the spacer. If the inner and outer race are aligned on both sides, use the spacer. I looked at about 7 rear axles I had and there was quite the mix of ways people had done this.
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Old 07-10-2011, 03:18 PM   #43
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Awesome write up, I used it this weekend and everything went amazingly well. I got the bearing with the spacer built into it, national, and timken seals. Part numbers below...
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Old 11-25-2011, 07:56 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock4xFab View Post
Just an FYI, for those pulling the retainer. Another way other then grinding it so far through. We set the axle on a drill press and use a 5/16" drill bit( set the depth as to not hit the axle shaft. drill it the use a chissel with a good smack and it will fall off. It takes me less the 5 mins to pop both axle bearing retainers.
I am going to have to try this. I have an axle here to play with now.
I took one off the other day and while grinding it started to spin and fell off. I was nearly to the point of stopping and getting out the chisel.
First ones I did I cut the bearing off too. The interference fit of the bearing on the axle is not that much. .001" I have tapped them off and now I just put the puller on and they fall off before I apply much pressure at all to the tool.
To put on a new retainer I put the retainer in a pan of oil and put it on a hot plate. Heat to about 500F and the retainer will just fall on. May use a tube over the axle to slide hammer it on. The retainer is .003"-.006" interference fit. If you just press on the retainer cold you will mar the shaft, guaranteed! Is it a big deal? Probably not for most axles I have seen failed at the spline. Not that big of a deal to do it this way. You have to work fast thought. I do the final set with the H press but it usually isn't needed if done right. Just a bit of insurance doesn't hurt.

410 kit is the tits. They are thin and don't use them to set the bearing in the housing. They will bend easily and thus the bearing may not go in fully. I have not figured out how to press the bearing in the housing properly by pushing on the outer race. I have one side that is tight and I have been hitting the axle with a block of wood to set it. It doesn't take much and I feel pretty confident that I am not damaging the bearing. Just make sure the housing is clean of any rust or debris.

To use a 410 retainer you have to enlarge the hole in the backing plate to fit the retainer. I didn't have a hole saw that big so I had to use the torch and then grind to fit. If yo have a hole saw then take a piece of wood or metal plate, transfer the 4 bolt pattern to it and then mare a center hole. Bolt on the wood and use the center hole as a guide for the hole saw pilot.








Don't forget to bend the tabs over to hold the bolts on the 410 plate. I bought longer bolts too.
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Old 11-25-2011, 11:56 AM   #45
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I can't see why the hole in the backing plate has to be a close fit to the 410 plate. It appears to me that as long as you have material around the bolt holes of the backing plate, that the other part of the hole could be out of round, torch cut, or whatever. Could someone tell me what I am missing, or do I see it correctly?

Ken, what length are the bolts you used?

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Old 11-25-2011, 01:14 PM   #46
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I think I used 30mm ones. It makes it easier to get it all together and if I recall the stock bolts were marginally long enough. I also remove the long brake spring on one side. This makes it easier to get the 410 plate behind the spring too.

The center is what locates the backing plate I think, not the bolt holes. This is important so the brakes are centered in the drum. I guess you could leave the backing plate bolts loose, put it together and then apply brakes. Then tighten up the backing plate mounting bolts. Check to see if the brakes rub at that point. I'm not sure if the backing plate would move under braking if it was just held in by the bolts. This is just how I did it.

When I pull my axles I just unbolt the 4 bolts that hold the drum to axle and pull the wheel and drum off together and put it back on the same way. You have to be careful not to booger up the shoes. I've done it this way dozens of times but I am a fairly large guy with a good bit of strength.
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Old 11-25-2011, 01:33 PM   #47
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Thanks Ken.

I haven't installed my 410 plates yet, but I cut them for the "U" install.

Wayne
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Old 12-02-2011, 07:45 PM   #48
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Sounds like Oscar madzukr is having issues with his supplier getting him the proper bearing retainer.Plus his supplier is giving him a bunk bearing # that has that spacer on both sides of the bearing,the Timken part # 511002 has the spacer built in to just one side like we need.

In the aftermarket parts world the only number im having luck finding that actually is the correct spacer is from Beck/Arnely part # 053-0031

Hope this will save some of you guys some frustration.
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Old 12-30-2011, 06:11 AM   #49
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Question, there are bearing retainers that are taiwan aftermarket that slips in but does not hold the bearings in place (quality control sucks but maybe not so bad for my idea). I was thinking of spot welding the retainers in place instead of force fitting this, easier to replace the bearings by just grinding off the spot weld, and you can still reuse the retainers, as per photo below:



Any thoughts people on doing this, I would think that convenience is the key here since there is no need to press fit everything, and all can be done inside your garage. Anything to watch out when doing this approach?

Sorry for using a members photo here, forgot the name of the fellow, but thank you, whoever you are.
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Old 12-30-2011, 08:03 AM   #50
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Kool,

Glad this one was bumped to the top

I will be doing bearing replacement next weekend.

Great info with good pics,
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