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Old 08-26-2006, 10:14 AM   #1
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Rear axle bearing install

Got another project here at the house and thought I would share some info, Might help someone to do this job on there own.

I'm installing new rear axle shaft bearings and axle seals. Reason for this is failed bearing and a leaking seal.(This is in a stock Zuk axle. Not mine.)

The first time I did this job (years ago) I didnt know that the E-brake cable was just held on at the brake backing plate with a pin. So I ended up removing the intire assembly from the backing plate. Dumb ass me. So I want to point this step out very clearly.

First thing to do is remove the pin holding the E-brake cable to the backing plate.



Just pull the cotter key and the pin will pull up and out.



E-brake cable removed.



This is the pin and keeper you will be removing.



Next remove the brake line from the wheel cylinder.



Of course buy now the Zuk is on jack stands. Now remove the 4 nuts at the axle end. This is all that holds the axle shaft in position.



I just leave the tire on, so that way I can use the tire to kick the axle out of the housing. Just kick the inside of the tire outward and the axle will come out.
The extra rubber brake hose you see is something I put on just to keep brake fluid from draing all over the place.



Once the axle is out I removed the tire. After that remove the 4 nuts that hold the brake drum to the axle shaft.



Now remove the brake drum. This will allow the backing plate to move outward and away from the bearing.



At this point I like to cap off the wheel cylinder to keep any crap out of the cylinder. I used a piece of old brake line folded over and smashed in a vice.





Now onto the fun stuff. Theres three pieces that have to come off the axle. The lock, The bearing, and the spacer. The lock and the bearing are a press fit and will not just pull off. The spacer will just pull off after the bearing is off.
This is how I remove the lock. I used an electric grinder and ground down the lock to the point of almost copletely through. But didnt go all the way through.



Now use a chisel and hit the lock at the point where it was ground down.



This will break the lock and it will now slide right off the shaft, and there will not be any marks in the shaft. I dont like using a torch for this because I fell it put to much heat to the axle shaft.





Now to remove the bearing I switched to this style grinder with a cut off wheel. Cut through the outter race in two places 180 degrees apart and peel the outter race off.





Now your left with the inner race and the spacer.



Now use the electric grinder and chisel again and remove the inner race. The spacer will just slide off.



This is what is left of what was just removed from the axle.

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Old 08-26-2006, 10:45 AM   #2
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Now onto the reassembly.
Here are all the new parts.



Heres the part numbers.
Spacer



The spacer has two differant sides but only goes on one way. The concaved side will go on towards the backing plate. The flat side will be agenst the bearing.



Bearing



Lock



I bought all this from TT for $55 each side, So $110 plus frieght to do the complete axle. This also came with an axle seal that I havent shown yet.

I loaded all the new parts onto the axle shaft. In this order: Spacer, bearing, and lock put everything in the press and pressed on the new parts.



Here is what it should look like when finished.



I still need to replace the seals and put it all back together. So check back later to see the rest.
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Old 08-26-2006, 01:06 PM   #3
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That is a beauty of a write up. Did you do a write up on your 16v harness?
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Old 08-26-2006, 09:42 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zukking01
That is a beauty of a write up. Did you do a write up on your 16v harness?
Thanks, and sorry, no I dont have any write ups on the 16v harness.
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Old 08-26-2006, 10:42 PM   #5
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As usual,a very detailed and informative write up.
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Old 08-27-2006, 04:59 PM   #6
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Very nice write up!!
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Old 08-27-2006, 05:06 PM   #7
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Great info.
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Old 08-28-2006, 07:31 PM   #8
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Now for the last few steps.
Pulling the old seal from the axle tube is a no big deal, just use a large pry bar and pry out the seal. Use some emery cloth and clean out any rust from the seal area.
One thing worth making note of is, The little black plastic thingy that sits in the axle tube inboard of the seal. This is in there to keep the axle shaft from damaging the seal on installation of the axle shaft. The axle shaft will rest on the plastic piece and not the seal.



Seal and part #



Not much to tell about putting in the seal. Just drive it in with a big socket. Just make sure it's square when installing. I like to put a bead of sealant around the axle flange where the backing plate bolts on.



This is the only type of sealant I will use. I feel its way better than anything else.



Now just slide the axle back in, Tighten up the bolts reattach the brake lines and bleed the brakes and your all done.

Thats all there is to it. Hope this will help one of my Zuki brothers.
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Old 08-29-2006, 08:05 PM   #9
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Good stuff! Thanks for the work!
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Old 08-29-2006, 08:17 PM   #10
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Very nice article, Hell if I was closer I would treat you to a beer for that one. Keep up the good tech, I am relatively new to these and always like to find easier ways to do things. I figured out the way to change the rear third without removing the brakes by tearing apart another spare axle I had, hehehehehe.
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Old 09-20-2006, 01:46 PM   #11
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Rear Wheel Bearings



Wow, just in time! I got the drivers side leaking. Thanks for the GREAT pictures!

I like the idea of leaving the Tire ON to pull it apart.
I ordered parts for both sides, figure one side is leaking, the other just waiting to ruin a new set of brakes!

I am going to read the thread again and again before starting the job!
I hope I can do a near-as-good job!

Thanks from a Newbie!



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Old 09-21-2006, 09:38 PM   #12
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Great Post! You saved me a lot of headaches. I just pulled my third member out and found this plastic piece in the bottom of the housing. I had no idea where it came from and searched Chiltons and still couldn't figure out where it came from. NOW I KNOW!
So off to the dealer and order a new one while my spool is getting installed!
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Old 08-12-2007, 08:57 PM   #13
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Sweet thread, gotta bring this one back to the top!

Today I pulled my rear end in preparation of lots of work (TT heavy duty axle housing, spool, 5.12s, new bearings and seals...the works) and I tried a really hare-brained idea to get the old bearing AND bearing lock ring off, involving my shop press and the brake backing plate. End result, one F'ed up backing plate. Sigh. Now I'm wondering if I should try finding a new one or just go to discs in back.

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Old 08-12-2007, 09:04 PM   #14
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I could send you a spare brake backing plate I have laying around if you pay shipping. I've gotten all kinds of stuff this way and it's time I pay it forward.


oh but if rear disks are an easy enough option, I'd love to have those over drums any day.
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Old 08-12-2007, 10:41 PM   #15
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addendum for those who use non-OEM parts...

I am replacing bearings on a rear axle using non-OEM parts which are slightly different so I thought I would add some graphics that show the difference between the two types and how non-OEM parts fit. First Holeshot's picture of the bearing stack:



Here you can see (from left to right) the spacer, the bearing and the retainer.

This is what the OEM parts look like graphically:



and what a typical aftermarket bearing may look like:



Note that the aftermarket bearing has the spacer built into the bearing and both the spacer part of the bearing and the OEM spacer itself are contoured to fit snugly against the rounded edge of the axle lip (that curved line near the outer edges of the spacer representing the actual shape of the axle shaft). It is important to install the OEM spacer with the contoured edge against the axle lip so that the bearing is the correct distance from the drum flange!
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Old 08-12-2007, 11:50 PM   #16
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Thanks... good to know!
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Old 08-13-2007, 10:53 AM   #17
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I decided I'm going to go discs in back. No sense putting effort into fixing drums. Compared to my Tacoma, I felt the brakes on my stock Samurai were excellent, though I think after the lift and 34s they would not feel as good any more. So I think the discs are in order anyways!
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Old 04-25-2008, 07:03 AM   #18
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Speaking of rear axles I'm having a pinging sound coming from there and then it goes away after I speed up..like a clang clang shik shik sound...now when I put it in 4hi it stops.
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Old 05-01-2008, 11:14 PM   #19
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Thanks for this thread, I just ordered the parts to do this. You can hear metal on metal on the passenger side and see oil on the inside of the tire.
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Old 05-16-2008, 07:07 AM   #20
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Holeshot dude that Rocks...... Great job... If you ever need a camera Biotch call me I'll come take the pictures...
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Old 07-11-2008, 06:21 PM   #21
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Ya'll want pics of the 410 backing plates installed?
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Old 07-11-2008, 11:17 PM   #22
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sure!!
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Old 07-11-2008, 11:37 PM   #23
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Cant find my pics of it installed why I redid my bearings.
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Old 10-07-2008, 01:50 PM   #24
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I did my bearing today.
everything went great until I forgot to put the brake plate back on after cleaning the oil before I put on the bearing and the shrink ring
ooops!!!!
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Old 12-19-2008, 04:14 PM   #25
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Excellent post. I used it today to replace my rear bearings. Went very smooth and took about three hours. I also replaced the ubolts and changed the rear diff gear oil. The 12 ton press from harbor freight worked excellent to press them back on. I can't believe how bad the bearings were and I can't believe how poorly they are sealed between the oil seal and outer hub. I can't believe there isn't a better seal surface or supplied seal other than rtv. I thought the vibration was from my tires but it was from the bearings. So so far after three days I have the spoa done, front/rear axle bearings, barfield joints rebuilt. Next is a regeared Tcase and ujoints all the way around.
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